(Nameless) Caddis Emerger

I sat down the other evening to tie a few Classified Caddis patterns.   Out came the dubbing block, carpet scrapes from the new house and the coffee grinder.   Before I fully got set up I was called away by the damsel in distress...  Then the gal needed me to help get some things from a top shelf in the kitchen.   After my daring rescue I have no clue how I ended up with this pattern, but it certainly looks like a winner and I have no doubt it is going to perform well.

This caddis is reminiscent of a few patterns, but somehow came out with elements of several combined by happenstance.  Let me start out by mentioning I like my most of my caddis patterns buggy.  This one is no exception.  Not only does a shaggy appearance offer exceptional light refraction, transparency, but it offers the illusion of movement and life.  The (Nameless) has both a shuck and the body veiled by 100-precent Antron trilobal material to simulate the gas bubble.  The partridge would have normally been added for wing buds alongside the body, but ended up over the top of the body.  Perfect for emergers or possibly spent caddisflies!

I have feeling this pattern is going to spend a lot of time being fished downstream on my way back to the rig!

Materials:

Hook:  TMC 2499 SPBL, Sizes 8 to 18.  (Size 14 pictured.)
Thread:  UTC 70, Yellow (Body).  Finish with UTC 70, Brown
Shuck:  Nature's Spirit Emergence Dubbing, mixed amber (#70) and tan (#42).
Body:  UTC 70, Yellow.  Build up the familiar caddis shape for the body.  The thread is returned rearwards, split the thread and add dubbing, spin tightly an wound forward as a rib. The "rib" can be close together or slightly apart, but allow the body to show through.  Comb rearwards.
Wing:  Two partridge feathers, One on top of another.  
Thorax:  Spirit River UV2 Caddis Nymph dubbing, dark brown.

Ice Wing Caddis

Notes:

(1)  From the creative mind of Clark "Cheech" Pierce comes the Ice Wing Caddis; which,  has been a superb pattern for early season when the water is high and a little dirty for me.  Consider tying a few with an over-sized bead to bounce the bottom, if needed.
(2)  Use as an anchor fly.  You'll find most of your strikes come near the end of your drift as the fly rises.  My favorite dropper is a soft hackle.
(3)  Although not necessary I tie a little taper before wrapping the body materials for a more robust look.
(4)  The pearl mylar will provide brilliancy through the midge tubing for an unique effect.
(5)  The Ice Dubbing fibers for the wing can be slightly straightened if desired.  Roll the fibers between your fingers, wet, repeat and then slightly pull fibers.
(6)  After the wing is tied in place use the "pinch/pull method" to ensure the length is just beyond the bend of the hook.  Do not cut with scissors as this looks unnatural.
(7)  The collar is spun in a dubbing loop utilizing the "split thread method."
(8)  You can watch Cheech tied his Ice Wing Caddis below!

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph or any curved nymph hook.  Sizes 10-16.  (Size 12 pictured.)
Bead:  Appropriate size copper (color) tungsten or brass bead.  A glass bead in metallic bronze works surprisingly well.
Thread:  UTC70, Olive.
Underbody:  Veevus (or choice) pearl mylar.
Body:  Hareline Midge Tubing, Olive
Wing:  Ice Dubbing, Olive Brown
Thorax: Very small amount of Ice Dubbing in olive brown to cover thread wraps.
Collar:  Arizona Synthetic Dubbing, Dark Hare's Ear

Holy Grail Caddis

Notes:

(1)  Game changer!  The Holy Grail combines the elements of hare's ear, partridge (soft hackle style), a tungsten (or brass) bead (even a glass bead can be used) and pearl Flashou.  This is a winning combination! Let's add one more fish-catching attribute- ultra violet.  I've mixed a small amount of Ice Dubbing in pearl blue to this caddis emerging pattern.  Hang on!
(2)  Upstream nymphing, Czech nymphing or swinging.  It doesn't matter your style of fishing.  The fish will come!  I find most of my strikes come from downstream about the three quarter mark of the drift or swing.
(3)  Black, brown, cinnamon, burnt orange are all great colors to switch to- depending your local species.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 10 to 16 (Size 12 pictured).  Or 2XL nymph hook.
Bead:  Size appropriate gold tungsten or brass.  Also consider a glass bead!
Thread:  UTC 70 color to match (UTC 70 brown pictured)
Ribbing:  Flashabou, pearl (Flashabou Mirage is a good change up)
Body/Thorax:  Hare's ear.  Color to match local species.  I've added pearl blue Ice Dubbing (UV)
Wingcase:  Pheasant tail, natural or color to match.
Hackle/Collar:  Partridge, gray or brown

I've opened the hackle up in order to view the body, thorax and wingcase.

Sparkle Yarn Caddis

Notes:

(1)  The body is comprised of tightly spinning Antron Sparkle Yarn and winding forward.  A small hump of thread is built up at the top of the bend beforehand.
(2)  This particular Sparkle Yarn is from the 1970's and was specifically designed and colored by Gary LaFontaine of Caddisflies fame..  However, it is still available through a few outlets and the formula(s) haven't change.  Phenomenal stuff!
(3)  Before twisting yarn tightly lightly brush out the clear Antron fibers.  Once twisted into a cord lightly brush again.  This will protrude the clear Antron.  Be sure not to trap the Antron fibers when winding.  Further brushing after the body is wrapped may be necessary.
(4)  Colors can be change.  Try white Antron Sparkle Yarn and take an indelible marker to the body. Light olive, light yellow, cream, light to medium orange are wonderful possibilities that will mimic numerous species of caddis.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 8-16.  (Size 12 pictured.)  Or any curved nymph hook.
Bead:  Size appropriate tungsten, brass or glass bead.  (2.8mm gold tungsten pictured.)
Thread:  UTC70, cream.  Thorax is finished in UTC70, brown
Body:  Antron Sparkle Yarn (original).  This is a very soft yarn.
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum mixed with Sybai Fine Flash, dark peacock.

And.... the wet look!

Rhyacophila Caddis (Variant) (Kaufmann)

Notes:

(1)  This simple pattern comes from the vise of Randall Kaufmann.  He has given anglers numerous steelhead and trout over the years that warrant always carrying a few in the fly box.
(2)  The original pattern called for a body of creamy green Antron with the thorax comprises of 75-percent of black fur and 25-percent of the body material.  I have added a slight amount of Ice Dubbing in pearl blue (actually a purplish color) to the body dubbing and dubbed straight Awesome 'Possum dyed black.  I have also added a metallic purple iris 11/0 glass bead.
(3) The dubbing is ABCaddis Antron blend specifically made for Gary LaFontaine's caddis patterns.
(4) The body will darken when wet.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 10-16 (Size 16 pictured).
Bead:  11/0 Metallic Iris Purple (#) Japanese Tohu or weight to suit with lead or brass/tungsten bead.
Thread:  UTC70, black
Ribbing:  Sybai 0.1mm, Green wire.  (This is a very bright green color!)
Body:  ABCaddis Blend #5 Cream and Green dubbing in a taper (This dubbing is still available.)
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum dyed black

The wet look.  You can see a little of the UV in the body starting to show.  Note how the color has darkened.

Muskrat (Rosborough)

Notes:

(1)  There is so much to write about the man who devised this simple little nymph.  Please take time to do a little research on Polly Rosborough.  You will not be disappointed!  I'll briefly cover a few things below.
(2)  When you read or hear the words "segmented," "noodle" or "fuzzy" in or about fly tying rest assured these words came from Polly!
(3)  Depending on the pattern book you read, the Muskrat is classified either as a searching or caddis pattern.
(4)  The beauty of this unassuming pattern is its simplicity and three materials according to Polly instructions, but the fish do not seem to mind two (less legs).  And the fish may take this fly for a myriad of insects.
(5)  The body is formed by tightly dubbing muskrat to the thread.  Once a thick "noodle" is formed the bobbin is brought back up to the hook to form a dubbing loop.  Once secured the loop is closed by wrapping back to the bend of the hook (starting point for wrapping forward) pressure is maintained throughout the wrapping of the body.  This will give the "segmented" look.
(6)  A handful or two of dyed muskrat is available on the market.  Definitely try a chartreuse body!

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 10-16.  Polly used Mustad 3906B in sizes 6-16
Body:  Dubbed muskrat per instruction above
Legs:  Finely speckled guinea hen
Head.  Ostrich dyed black

The Muskrat dubbed with a heavy mixture clear Antron.

Catgut Caddis

Notes:

(1)  I cannot think of a finer material to represent the body of a caddis than catgut!  Very translucent! This material comes in various sizes and colors that will accurately imitate your local caddis to a "T."
(2)  Catgut is best used after being soaked in water for a few minutes.  Do not over-soak.  Over-soaking will cause the catgut to eventually split.
(3)  Adding antenna is optional.
(4)  Build up the rear portion of the hook with thread.  This will better represent the natural.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 10-16.  (Size 12 pictured.)
Bead:  Size appropriate tungsten or brass bead.  (3.0mm gold tungsten pictured.)  Also recommended are various glass bead.
Thread:  UTC 70, cream or yellow (Cream pictured.)  Finished with UTC 70, brown.  Use black to finish the thorax of olive color Catgut Caddis'
Body:  Catgut, color to match natural.  (Medium natural color pictured.)
Wing Buds:  Brown partridge or grouse tied along the side or underneath.
Antenna: (Optional)  Bronze mallard
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum dyed dark brown (pictured) slightly picked out.

Wet look with 11/0 silver lined rainbow topaz Tohu glass bead.

Flashabou Caddis

Notes:

(1)  This pattern was taken from the groundbreaking book, Flies, The Best One Thousand, Randle Scott Stetzer (1992).  The originator is Greg Carrier.
(2)  I started tying this particular pattern as one of my "guide flies" not only for it's simplistic recipe, but also it's effectiveness.  It is also one the of patterns I have constantly tinkered with over the years. You'll find the original materials effective (medium olive color rabbit for the body and small gold wire ribbing), but these materials became boring rather quickly with the market being flooding with new synthetics over the years- especially the ultra violet side.  Find a dubbing that fits your liking and coloration for local waters and you'll be in business!
(3)  I've tried various winging materials, but nothing seems to beat the effectiveness of normal Flashabou.
(4)  The Flashabou Caddis is a great dropper pattern.  Where this pattern really shines is in the presentation.  Cast quartering upstream and allowing your presentation to finish swinging downstream is the most effective technique I have found.  You'll find most of your strikes come as the flies are three quarters or more though the drift.  This only makes perfect sense as your dropper rises to the surface imitating an emerging caddis.  The Flashabou aids not only as a target/trigger to the fish, but the aids in movement as current pushes over and around this stiffer winging material

Materials:

Hooks:  (Pictured) Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, size 14.  Any standard nymph hook is acceptable.
Thread:  UTC 70, brown
Ribbing:  Largartun small oval, gold. (Originally small gold wire.) (I like more flash!)
Body:  Sybai's Fine Flash UV, olive slightly picked out
Wing:  Pearl Flashabou.  2-strands tied in and folded back over the body and clipped before the end of the body
Thorax/Head:  UV2 Caddis Nymph, dark brown heavily picked out and brushed rearward.

JAB's Rockworm (Improved)

Notes:

(1)  This is the third "improvement" I have made to this fly.  It is highly doubtful I try to improve upon it again unless a new material fancies me.  Yes, it is that deadly on a few of the rivers I fish.
(2)  The body is wound using light olive Glitter Thread.  However, Glitter Thread alone proves to be a little too bright.  It wasn't until I took a light tan marker to the body and dulled the Glitter Thread's metallic brilliancy that this pattern became "lights out!"   The olive color will still show through the tan... This matched the olive net builders in a couple rivers perfectly!  Excellent mottled effect on this fly!
(3)  Adding UV resin to the body is optional, but I do so (if time allows) to bombproof the body.
(4)  After trying several colors of glass beads I have settled on metallic bronze.
(5)  This is an excellent dropper fly.  I usually run this in conjunction with a stonefly pattern in riffle and pocket water.
(6)  If your favorite river contains a lot of algae this is your fly!  The little buggers love the environment!

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 14 and 16 (Size 16 pictured.)
Bead:  11/0 for size 14 and 15/0 for size 16.  Metallic Bronze.  Coffee color tungsten is a great choice.  I wrapped the body with tungsten thread for weight and taper.
Thread:  UTC 70, Brown
Tail:  Unravel the end of two pieces of light olive Glitter Thread and remove the mylar tinsel.  You should have 10-strands of a material similar to Antron yarn.  Tie this in and cut short.
Body:  Glitter Thread, light olive and colored with a Pantone pen, light tan.
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum dyed dark brown and mixed with clear Antron.

JAB's Straggle Larva

Notes:

(1)  If you haven't tried Straggle String (Semperfli) yet I would recommend trying a spool or two.  I was a little skeptical at first, but this stuff truly turns on the magic for caddis patterns- especially larva patterns.  Simple, quick to tie and highly effective patterns.  Numerous colors!
(2)  Straggle String comprises of a color core and 2-strands of mylar.  Both strands are transparent, but one strand matches the color of the core and the other is the purplish UV we've all come accustom to.
(3)  The strands may be a little longer than necessary.  Discreet trimming to length is acceptable
(4)  Be creative.  There area a lot opportunities to replace chenille with Straggle String.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 10-16 (Size 14 pictured)
Bead:  11/0 Transparent Rainbow Topaz Toho glass.  Standard brass or tungsten may be utilized in place of glass.  I have wrapped tungsten thread for weight.
Thread:  UTC 70. color to match body.  Replace with color to match thorax.
Back:  Thin Skin, clear/black dots
Body:  (Pictured)  Straggle String #SF7250 (Rhyacophilla Fl Green)
Thorax:  (Pictured)  Straggle String #2050 (Cooper Brown)  A small amount of Awesome 'Possum dyed dark brown is added for "bugginess."

JAB's Camo Caddis

Notes:

(1)  My Camo Caddis is a great pattern for riffles and pocket water where the net builder lives.  I also like to fish the heads of pools in the summer time with this pattern.
(2)  Standard brass or tungsten beads can replace the glass.  Additionally, Zonker tape cut in to strips can be used.  Here I weighted the body with tungsten thread to help build the taper.
(3)  The body is formed by tightly twisting white polytron (Cascade Crest) and wrapping forward.  Colors should be matched (as close as possible) to the naturals in your area.  Olive(s), tan(s) and various shades of amber as well as orange are great colors to have in the box.
(4)  You may consider leaving the fly white and matching colors streamside with Pantone pens.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 10-16 (size 14 pictured)
Bead:  11/0 Transparent Rainbow Topaz Tohu Glass or weight to suit
Thread:  UTC 70, brown
Tail: Polytron, white color as desired
Body: Polytron, white color as desired.  (Pictured is a combination of apple green and bright olive for the body.  The top was lightly doted with black)
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum, dyed dark brown mixed with clear Antron.

Tail and body before coloring with indelible ink.

JAB's Periwinkle

Notes:

(1)  I designed this pattern specifically for long stretches of pocket water.
(2)  The bead color can be change out to normal brass and even colors such as coffee and black.
(3)  The body is made from twisted metallic DMC embroidery thread and then the back colored with an indelible marker (Light Tan).  Lightly cover with UV resin.  Several color options are available to the tier.
(4)  DMC comes as an one strand material which can be further split to individual fibers.  Larger flies may call for 3 or 4 strands where as smaller flies require less individual strands.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 10-16 (Size 12 pictured)
Bead:  Size appropriate tungsten or brass.  Colors:  Gold, black or coffee
Thread:  UTC 140, cream.  Used to build body taper.  Finishing/Dubbing thread is UTC 70, brown.
Body:  3-strands of DMC embroidery (#E746) Pearlescent Effects (This is a soft creamy yellow with pearl mylar.  AWESOME for caddis pupa!)  Twist tightly and wrapped forward.
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possom dyed dark brown mixed lightly with Fine Flash dark peacock.  Picked out heavily.

Woven Nymph

Notes:

(1)  Weaving takes a little bit of practice and dexterity.  Once the tying basics are down you will have quick, fairly bombproof, and very effective pattern.  Youtube has several weaving videos!
(2)  There are a lot of different materials that can be weaved.  DMC embroidery floss comes in several different colors and is inexpensive.  You can find DMC at nearly big box store.  The best selection will be found at stores that specifically deal in notions materials.
(3)  Floss(es) are a little more easier to work with if there are soaked for a few minutes.
(4)  For best results use a color of thread that matches the underbody.
(5)  DMC floss comes in six strands.  Larger flies require 3 to 4 strands and smaller flies may only require 2-strands.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, sizes 10-16 (Size 12 pictured.)
Bead:  Size appropriate gold tungsten.  Flat lead (zonker tape) is also added for additional weight and taper.
Thread:  UTC 70, color to match underbody (Cream was utilized,)
Body:  DMC embroidery floss (#938 - brown) and (3823 - creamy yellow)
Thorax:  Awesome 'Possum, dyed dark brown with a small amount of Fine Flash, dark peacock mixed in and picked out underneath.