#45 The Skater
Notes:
(1) The short, spiky hair from the ears is used to form a hackle effect enabling this pattern to skate across the surface. I would definitely recommend keeping casts short (maximum 25-feet) to work the fly across runs and rifles.
(2) Any fly floatant will work however, Hydrostop or Albolene (makeup remover) are great choices.
(3) To form a thicker [caddis] body dubbing is applied fairly loose yet thick to the thread. This will allow the hair to slightly flair. Once the body has been wound forward pull the hair downward under the body. Brush or pull hair rearward. The wing is then applied. The head/collar is form via the split thread method. Maneuver the hair rearward during each wrap. Once complete the hair is drawn downward. If desired the hair can also be allowed to rest in place.
4) This pattern should be tied in colors that match your local hatch. However, the skating action will draw strike regardless of the color
(2) Any fly floatant will work however, Hydrostop or Albolene (makeup remover) are great choices.
(3) To form a thicker [caddis] body dubbing is applied fairly loose yet thick to the thread. This will allow the hair to slightly flair. Once the body has been wound forward pull the hair downward under the body. Brush or pull hair rearward. The wing is then applied. The head/collar is form via the split thread method. Maneuver the hair rearward during each wrap. Once complete the hair is drawn downward. If desired the hair can also be allowed to rest in place.
4) This pattern should be tied in colors that match your local hatch. However, the skating action will draw strike regardless of the color
Materials
Hook: Dry fly. Sizes 6-16. (Firehole 419 #10 pictured)
Thread: 6/0 or 8/0. Dark brown or color to match body
Ribbing: Fine, gold, round
Body: Hare's ear. Color of choice. Raked directly from the ear.
Wing: 2 natural brown partridge feathers paired on top of each other.
Head/Collar: Same as body
Antennae: Bronze mallard
Antennae: Bronze mallard
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