Fugly Bugger

I am hoping I don't have to explain the slang terminology of the first word in this pattern's name.  It is not pretty (pun intended). However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

You've probably notice a few changes from a standard woolly bugger- the peacock herl tail and dubbed body.  It was a result of creative fly tying juices flowing, yet I won't claim any originality of the pattern.  The whole premise of this step-by-step is to get the tier thinking more outside the "material box."  

My preference for bugger bodies has always been dubbing.  While adding a little time to pattern completion, a dubbed body creates a very buggy appearance, bulk (if desired), movement that chenille(s) cannot compete against, and the extra attraction of it's unique light refraction/signature- especially when synthetic materials are utilized.  However, don't limit yourself...  Natural hair, (or a mix of natural and synthetic) e.g., angora, opossum, squirrel, picked out work wonders at times!  

This step-by-step utilizes a synthetic spectrumized peacock colored dubbing.   Mr. Peacock dubbing from The Fly Tyers Dungeon (www.flytyersdungeon.com)(no affiliation) is very inexpensive and available in 12 wickedly vibrant fishy colors.  I classify this material as semi-coarse and easy to dub.

Peacock herl for a tail?  Peacock herl taken from under the eye possesses the most vivid, longest fibers off the stem and wonderful movement in the water.  However, many consider it a little too weak for tailing material. Understandable, but the strength and magic of peacock is often underestimated. Chewed or broken herl can always be discreetly cut back to the body and the fly can then be fished as a Woolly Worm-ish pattern.  Further trimming of the hackle results in a cased caddis.  A suitable substitution is thin peacock sword.

Although not aesthetically pleasing in the eyes of most, other tailing materials include single strand floss, Angel Hair (or eqvuilant), metallic threads, and longer supple hair such as temple dog and arctic fox under fur.  You are only limited by your imagination!   The fuglier - the better!

Materials

Thread: 10/0 Veevus, black or choice

Hook:  Daiichi 1260 size 6 (shown) or choice

Bead:  Spirit River Brite Bead, 4.0mm, nickel black (shown) or choice

Weight to suit

Tail:  6 to 10 peacock herls taken from below the eye

Rib: Optional 

Hackle:  Black strung saddle

Body:  Mr. Peacock dubbing (synthetic peacock color)

Step 1

Slid bead on to hook.  Secure hook in vise.  Additional weight may be added at this point.  I have elected to slightly increase the weight and fill the void of bead with UTC wire as pictured.

Take 5 or 6 wraps of wire forward over the shank.

Once the number of wraps are complete, double back.  Remove tag ends and push wire into the center of the bead.

Step 2

Start thread immediately behind bead and wind rearward stopping between the hook point and barb.

Step 3

Remove 6 to 10 peacock herls from under the eye. (Six are pictured.) Align tips. I prefer bugger tails slightly shorter than normal and have measured just short of one hook length.  Secure herl with forward wraps of thread.

Step 4

Return thread to the rear of the hook.

The ribbing is optional and can be tied in during this step.  I have elected to bypass the ribbing. The body will be dubbed loose enough for me to bury the hackle stem firmly in to the material.

Select a saddle hackle with fibers slightly longer than one gape length.  Prepare by stripping one side free of fibers.  Secure tip first to hook.

Step 5

Wax thread.  Remove a small amount of dubbing from packaging.  

Loosely apply/twist a small amount of dubbing. Appearance should look similar to the picture.  

Wind forward to the bead.  Note the shaggy appearance.

Step 6

Lift hackle straight up.  Ensure fibers are pointed rearwards. Wrap hackle forward in 5 or 6 increments.  Take 2 or 3 extra wraps behind the bead.  Remove tag end.  Secure with two whip finishes if ribbing was omitted.

If rib was utilized, counter-wrap over the hackle stem.  Secure, remove tag end, and whip finish.

Step 7

The fly could easily be fish at this point.  However, I like these patterns shaggy!  Since the ribbing was omitted, I recommend a bodkin to carefully pick out the body material between the hackle wraps. A velcro or a bore cleaner may break the steam if too much pressure is applied.

Finished!

A quick side bar...  Even though the body has been heavily picked out note how thin the body still appears. Additionally, keep those tails thin.  A thinly dressed fly catches more fish!

Finally, one fishing technique I often use on the river is using a heavily weight Fugly Bugger (or any bugger) as a point fly in combination with a soft hackle or emerger patten.  The cast is made three quarters upstream and worked to completion downstream. The strike can come at anytime, but normally it occurs as the flies near the end of the drift and begin to rise off the bottom.

Enjoy!