Thread Comparison (and Helpful Tips)

The folks at In The Riffle have posted a excellent short video on thread comparison among three major players in the fly tying market.  At just under 10-minutes in length there is a lot of knowledge to gain in just characteristics and attributes.  Definitely worth a few minutes of your time!

Wouldn't be nice if one thread tackled all of our tying?  It would surely alleviate the need for several spools of thread! (Oh... that's part of the fun though!) However, for the beginning tier advancing in tying skills, you'll soon discover how threads differentiate in strength, material to material, to the even quality (eye appeal and strength) of the finished product.  Learning to choose the right thread and using it correctly will elevate your tying skills immensely.    There are many tying techniques of yesteryear still alive and well, but many new techniques call for a different size and/or attributes of thread you might be not acclimated to.  For example, let's take a look at a split thread dubbing loop which has been around for years.  The loop can still be formed with a round thread, but a flat thread makes the task so much easier.  And without squinting too hard! With this technique, UTC thread is an excellent choice for splitting the thread with a dubbing needle due to it's floss-like attribute. Round threads come recommended for stiffer or coarse materials such as metal tinsels, wire, some synthetics, and hackle where a little extra strength is required without too much worry of fraying.   Again, this is just a recommendation. I could write a tome on tying threads and their applications/attributes.  Rather, I'll leave you with a few helpful tips. 1)  Use the smallest diameter thread you can comfortably tie with appropriate to the pattern.   Not only does this help teach thread control, but flies will look more professional overall - especially the head - with practice, of course. 2)  Leave the scissors on the desk!  If you start a fly with a foundation of 6/0 (or smaller) thread along the hook shank leave approximately 6-inches for the tag end.  Instead of grabbing for the scissors simply give the tag end a good tug back towards the eye of the hook and it will break cleanly.   You might only save a few seconds, but add those seconds up over a period of time!   3)  Unless specified in the tying instructions utilize the bare minimum wraps to secure materials. Another time saver.   Additionally, you'll find this practice especially helpful on some Atlantic salmon, steelhead, and a few traditional wet flies. 4)  Make a habit of grabbing a extra spool of two of thread when you visit the fly shop.  We can become so focused on procuring the newest materials to hit the street we often forget the most important- the thread.  There's nothing like getting home and sitting down at the tying desk only to discover the right size or color of thread is missing.  Trust me!  5)  Ever had thread break for no apparent reason?  How did it become weak?  Most tiers automatically assume "it was a bad batch"  This is possible however, you might consider your tying space as a suspect with the offender being direct sunlight.   Direct sunlight punishes just everything on the face of the earth over time and will weaken thread in a heartbeat.  While fancy racks and tool holders look great, keep spools and tools organized, I opt to keep my extra thread in wooden cigar boxes out of the sunlight altogether . A Night Dancer tied on a size 5 Alec Jackson utilizing 10/0 thread.