Tier's Tip: Better Heads With Applicator Brushes

I cannot think of anything worse than tying a picture perfect fly only to ruin it by pooching the head and surround area with head cement.  Too much and it soaks in to the fibers behind the head, binds the hackle, covers the eye, dries noticeably (white), etc.  Come on... admit it....  It has happened, right?  Well, multiple the feeling of failure times ten after spending 3 to 4 hours on a single Atlantic salmon fly only to have it happen.  Man's best friend will immediately leave the room and want nothing to do with you until your mood reverts back to normal!

You've probably noticed I rarely specify applying head cement in the step-by-step instructions for trout flies.  Why?  For trout flies it isn't a necessity if you double/triple whip finish or end in a spot the whip finish is buried, e.g., behind a bead unseen.  However, when the need arises for head cement, I apply it to the thread and then whip finish.  This lacks the gloss and luster, but there is no mess and suffices for locking the wraps.

There comes a time when a tier is ready to step up his or her game and strives for small, neat, and professional looking heads.  Streamers, buggers, leeches, traditional wet flies, steelhead, salmon, and of course, display or commercially tied flies instantly fall into this category, but many enjoy the "bling in the fly box, too." How do you accomplish perfection without the expletives when applying head cement?  There's always the old fashion way of thinning the heck out of your head cement and applying it by barely dipping the tip of the bodkin... However, getting a small enough drop on the end of a finely honed bodkin tip can be tough- especially after a few cups of coffee. And doesn't it seem something magically sucks the drop off the tip and the head cement runs to a spot you don't want it to with a bodkin?  All is fine and dandy if you don't care too much, but liquids are automatically drawn to a softer (or absorbing) surface from a hard (non-absorbing surface).  Here is a great hack for getting those perfect glossy heads.

When you first purchased a bottle of head cement with the applicator brush did you think to yourself, "What the heck am I doing to use that brush for?"  Unless you intend to tie really big flies, there is no need for that brush and probably resorted to UV resigns or epoxy to finish the fly.

(New bottle of head cement with applicator.  Note wide brush width.)

With the new brush, simply remove excess head cement with a paper towel, clean thoroughly with thinner, and cut back the bristles on the brush to the main sizes of flies you tie.

(This brush has been trimmed down to five remaining bristles for fine work.  You may trim down even further to just two bristles for extremely fine work).

(Trimmed down brush compared to the original.)

I would recommend saving a few brushes and/or trimming to different sizes as you deplete stock. These can be cleaned in thinner, air dried and stored in zip-locks or half empty bottles of thinner, if desired.

 

For application, dip the tip of the brush into the head cement.  Much like a painter utilizes a paint can, use the side of the bottle to force the excess cement to the tips of the bristles.  Approach the thread with the tips of the bristles extending just past the area you intend to cover.  Then draw the brush towards yourself over the head.  Use the rotary feature of your vise to coat the head 360-degrees. This ensures an even amount of absorption of head cement into the thread.  Allow to completely dry before applying additional coats

It may take three or more coats of head cement to achieve the smooth, glossy look.  I will stress, even though you might have made a mistake or a wild fiber protrudes, allow the head cement to completely dry before applying another coat or fixing anything.  If the head is not thoroughly dry, mistakes are much more noticeable on preceding coats of head cement.  On display flies, I may wait a whole day before applying an additional coat of head cement!

As mentioned above a liquid will be drawn to a soft absorbing surface from a  hard surface. Since the bristles and thread are both absorbing (soft absorbing) entities you control the head cement instead of the inevitable with the bodkin.

(After seven coats of head cement a mirror-like head appears!)

Enjoy!