The most common tying technique utilized for trout patterns is placing a single glass bead at the head of a fly or thorax region. Occasionally, tiers will employ two beads for both the head and thorax simultaneously. But as time has passed, the use of beads for beautiful segmented abdomens/bodies doesn't seem to received the attention and the following it once did.
It is worth mentioning again... The fragility of the smaller glass beads has probably kept a lot of tiers from utilizing them more often. For instance, banging off rocks during a drift or back cast can crack or split a bead in two. Should that keep anglers from fishing a deadly pattern? No. But it did for me- to a degree.
Once UV resigns became available, I started tying the Killer Caddis again. This time applying a thin coat over the beads—essentially sealing and locking them in place—proved to be a superior improvement. Upon closer inspection, I noticed a completely different level of light refraction and iridescence, too.
Materials:
Hook: Daiichi 1120, sizes 12-18
Thread: Color to match beads
Beads: 11/0 for sizes 12-14 and 15/0 for 16-18
Head: Custom blend (or black/brown mixture or dark brown hare's ear, goat, synthetic)
Step 1:
Pinch barb. Add five 11/0 beads to size 12 hook, four 11/0 beads to a size 14, five 15/0 beads to size 16 and four 15/0 beads to size 18. Secure hook in vise.
Step 2:
With the beads pushed forward towards the eye start thread immediately behind cluster. Build a small base of thread. Test the thread base with the end bead. The bead should not slide easily over the thread base. If it does wrap another layer then test again. It should take a little pressure to maneuver the bead to the end of the thread wraps firmly securing it without play/movement. With UTC 70 thread wrapped flat, the base is usually sufficient with three layers (down to the bend, returned to the cluster and back to the bend). Whip finish even with the thread wraps on the hook shank and remove tag end.
Step 3:
Push all beads towards the bend. The end (at the bend) should be firmly planted on the thread base.
Apply a very thin coat of UV resin to outer and inside surfaces of beads with applicator brush. (I utilize Clear Cure Goo Hydro specifically for this task.) To avoid over runs at the end beads do not coat the vertical outside edges of the first and last bead. This will be the next step. Do not cure with light..
Step 3A
Once UV resin has leveled use the top of your finger nail on index finger to push beads higher on the hook shank. At the same time use thumb nail or finger nail on opposite hand to push beads tightly together. This should briefly hold in place... Remove fingers and zap the beads with UV light.
Doesn't the iridescence look awesome? Wow!
Step 4:
Now the the beads are coated and secure together remove hook from vise and reinsert as shown. Use caution not to bend hook point.
Step 4B:
Place a very small amount to the top of the bead. Zap with UV light. The reasons are two-fold: (1) it ensure the beads stay secured, and (2) adds a little taper to the end of the fly. Reinsert hook to the normal position.
A second coat of UV resin is optional, but recommended for added iridescence. If second coat of UV resin is desired, omit covering the taper area.
Step 5:
Start thread an half an eye length behind eye and wrap to beads.
Step 5A:
Dub head slightly larger than body tapering towards eye of the hook. Do not crowd eye area with dubbing.
Step 5B:
Brush dubbing rearward and the head area will blend nicely to the diameter of body.
Step 6:
Select two fibers from a bronze mallard feather. Tie in with the tips (ends) extending past the hook bend with three tight wrap over the top, two wraps under the fibers (behind the eye) and two more wraps over the top. Keep tension on the bobbin and pluck fibers away. (See Pheasant Tail Nymph instructions). Apply a little head cement to the first inch of the thread and whip finish.
Enjoy!
Hook: Daiichi 1120, sizes 12-18
Thread: Color to match beads
Beads: 11/0 for sizes 12-14 and 15/0 for 16-18
Head: Custom blend (or black/brown mixture or dark brown hare's ear, goat, synthetic)
Step 1:
Pinch barb. Add five 11/0 beads to size 12 hook, four 11/0 beads to a size 14, five 15/0 beads to size 16 and four 15/0 beads to size 18. Secure hook in vise.
Step 2:
With the beads pushed forward towards the eye start thread immediately behind cluster. Build a small base of thread. Test the thread base with the end bead. The bead should not slide easily over the thread base. If it does wrap another layer then test again. It should take a little pressure to maneuver the bead to the end of the thread wraps firmly securing it without play/movement. With UTC 70 thread wrapped flat, the base is usually sufficient with three layers (down to the bend, returned to the cluster and back to the bend). Whip finish even with the thread wraps on the hook shank and remove tag end.
Step 3:
Push all beads towards the bend. The end (at the bend) should be firmly planted on the thread base.
Apply a very thin coat of UV resin to outer and inside surfaces of beads with applicator brush. (I utilize Clear Cure Goo Hydro specifically for this task.) To avoid over runs at the end beads do not coat the vertical outside edges of the first and last bead. This will be the next step. Do not cure with light..
Once UV resin has leveled use the top of your finger nail on index finger to push beads higher on the hook shank. At the same time use thumb nail or finger nail on opposite hand to push beads tightly together. This should briefly hold in place... Remove fingers and zap the beads with UV light.
Doesn't the iridescence look awesome? Wow!
Step 4:
Now the the beads are coated and secure together remove hook from vise and reinsert as shown. Use caution not to bend hook point.
Step 4B:
Place a very small amount to the top of the bead. Zap with UV light. The reasons are two-fold: (1) it ensure the beads stay secured, and (2) adds a little taper to the end of the fly. Reinsert hook to the normal position.
A second coat of UV resin is optional, but recommended for added iridescence. If second coat of UV resin is desired, omit covering the taper area.
Step 5:
Start thread an half an eye length behind eye and wrap to beads.
Step 5A:
Dub head slightly larger than body tapering towards eye of the hook. Do not crowd eye area with dubbing.
Step 5B:
Brush dubbing rearward and the head area will blend nicely to the diameter of body.
Step 6:
Select two fibers from a bronze mallard feather. Tie in with the tips (ends) extending past the hook bend with three tight wrap over the top, two wraps under the fibers (behind the eye) and two more wraps over the top. Keep tension on the bobbin and pluck fibers away. (See Pheasant Tail Nymph instructions). Apply a little head cement to the first inch of the thread and whip finish.
Enjoy!
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