Pleasant Tail Nymph (English) (Or Reduced)

I don't even want to guess how many versions of the Pheasant Tail Nymph (PTN) exist however, I am sure there are at least a couple dozen.  That might be an under estimate to boot!  Different colors of pheasant tail fibers, ribbing, bead heads, flash back, copper "thread heads," etc... The list goes on and on.  You have to ask yourself, "Is there a better mayfly nymph?"  For a lot of anglers the Pheasant Tail Nymph is their number one go-to.

Yes, there are a lot of variations, but I will focus this blog article and the next two on the three most common- Sawyer's, American (Troth), and English (or reduced).  Frankly, I don't feel you need anything else to cover mayfly nymphs.

The English Pheasant Tail Nymph has a few variations, too.  You might run across one with no rib with the wing case folded over twice.  One has the ribbing wound through the thorax and yet another with the thorax made up of entirely copper wire.  Some have short tails- others, longer tails. Which one is correct?  Good question...  Of all the variations available I'll demonstrate what appears to be the most common.

Let's head to the vice and tie a size 20 English Pheasant Tail Nymph

Materials

Hook: Daiichi 1270 (16-20) or Dia-Riki 270 (20-24) (Daiichi 1270 size 20 used in demonstration)

Thread:  10/0 or 14/0 color to match pheasant 

Tail: Pheasant tail

Body: Pheasant tail

Rib: Copper wire (extra small UTC used)

Wing case" Pheasant tail

Step 1:

Pinch barb utilizing vice.  Place hook in vice.  Start thread approximately half to three quarters eye length behind eye.  Wrap rearward stopping about mid way down the shank.

Step 2:

Tie in extra small copper UTC wire under the shank.  Secure with wraps of thread rearward stopping above the barb.  With pressure from the thread wraps the wire should be facing you.

Step 3:

Select three pheasant tail fibers and draw them 90-degrees from the stem.  This will align the tips. Either pull or cut the fibers from the stem.  If you elect to cut the fibers, do so close to the stem.  

Cutting close to the stem is what I do.  If you pluck the fibers, you'll have to grab the scissors and trim the butts anyways... Save yourself a second or two.  

The tail should measure approximately one hook gap.  I find a slightly longer tail more durable (stronger portion of the fiber) and productive.  Secure tail to the top of the shank with one soft loop. The fibers can be adjusted at this point.  Once in place, take one more wrap.

The first wrap of fibers should be toward the rear covering the thread wraps.  The trap fibers forward in close turns to the previous wrap.  Stopping point is the original starting point of thread behind the eye.  When wraps of fibers are complete take an additional wrap of thread behind fibers. Then at a slight rearward angle of the thread take one wrap in front of the fibers and one more behind. With a little tension on the bobbin, pick an individual fiber and quickly pull it rearward- plucking it from the eye area.  Repeat until all fibers are removed.  This is a great tip keeping the head area small and alleviates the need for using scissors.

Note "clean" head area.

Step 4:

Counter wrap copper wire in even segments over entire body stopping behind the eye  I prefer to make close wraps of copper and strive to make 5 turns before the mid way section of the shank. Not only does give the appearance of a even segmented body, but more importantly, greatly reinforces the entire body.

Secure rib with turns back over the thorax.

Step 5:

Remove/cut approximately pheasant tail fibers from the tail.  Cut approximately 1/4-inch of the tips. Secure to the top of the shank with a few of the fibers close to you.

Select the closest 2 to 4 fibers towards you.  Lean towards more fibers- in case one or more break. Wrap forward.  Leave space at the eye and secure/pluck away fibers as in step 3.

Step 6:

Draw wing case fibers evenly over the top.  Secure with an additional wrap behind the fibers, one on front, and this time, two wraps behind rearwards covering more fibers.  

Cleanly remove/pluck fibers away from eye (step 3).  Retain tension on bobbin and make a three or four turn whip finish.

You might be darn near cross-eyed...

Enjoy!