Simple Bead Heads

When the bead head revolution exploded here in America I distinctly remember an article in one the fly fishing rags about the importance of being simplistic.  A few paragraphs stated bead heads were best fished in the riffles where trout had to quickly react (or not) and the need for exacting patterns were not warranted in such waters. Certainly made sense to me at the time, but truth be told, I still follow this guidance today.

I realize a lot has changed in the last few decades, but these super simple flies are great searching and impressionistic patterns perfect for the beginning angler/tier. Whether you fish a lake or river for trout or panfish these patterns catch a lot fish!

The flies in the article were tied with natural materials, e.g., hare's ear or opossum, and a rib.  But think of the possibilities today!  I vividly imagine several different material combinations...  

Materials:

Thread:  8/0 color to match

Hook:  Daiichi 1150 (or choice), sizes 8-18 (size 12 pictured)

Bead:  Size appropriate gold (or choice)

Rib:   Size appropriate gold oval.  There are literally dozens of options.  Try Krystal Flash, UTC wire, metallic thread(s), etc.  You are only limited by your imagination.

Body:  Custom blend 40% natural hare's ear, 40% natural American opossum, 20% clear Antron (pictured).  Again, there are a whole host of options for a body.

Step 1:

Place bead and hook in vise.

Step 2:

Additional weight can be added at this point.  I have elected to fill the bead with turns of copper wire. Push wire in the void of the bead.

Step 3:

Start thread immediately behind  bead/wire.  Tie in tinsel.

Step 4:

Wrap thread to a stopping point on the bend of the hook as show. Return thread to the starting point.

Step 5:

Heavily wax thread and return to the bend of the hook.  Though returning the thread to the starting point in step 4 may seem redundant, a base of heavy wax along the shank aids in keeping the hare's ear stationary with a lightly dubbed thread as well as ensuring the ribbing is tightly secured to the shank.

Note the coating of wax on the hook shank.

Step 6:

Lightly dub hare's ear around the thread.  Too tightly will give a noodle effect.  The trick is less pressure. The hair will loosen as you wrap the dubbing forward giving the desired effect.

Step 7:

Wrap dubbing forward to the bead however,  do not wrap too tightly against the bead.  You'll need a little room for the head.

Note the appearance of the dubbed body.  The dubbing may be picked out further for a very shaggy appearance, or if the body is too heavily, simply pinch the hairs and lift off.  This is the beauty of a loosely dubbed thread.  It takes a little practice, but worth the time saving!

Step 8:

Start the ribbing with one turn at the rear of the body and make 5 or 6 even and firm wraps forward. Secure ribbing.

Whip finish and add a drop of head cement. All done!

Another option that has been deadly is the addition of a hot butt. This is nothing more than laying a base of fluorescent thread down as shown below.  Note how floss-like flat the thread is.  Keeping the thread flat makes for professional looking hot butts.  Pictured is 70 denier UTC in chartreuse.

Add a coat of head cement.  This not only keeps the thread from getting chewed up, but it aids in keeping the thread's brilliancy.  Change thread back to matching color or simply continue the fly with the "hot" color.

Have fun!  The sky is the limit with color combinations!

Enjoy!