The midge larva on my favorite tailwater seem to become a staple for the wild rainbows and browns after a large, quick water release from the Monticello Dam. The higher water dislodges these tasty morsels from the bottom substrate and they free drift until they find the bottom again or the mouth of an eager trout. I also give strong consideration to tying a larger red larva pattern on the tippet after a steady rain feeling trout may mistake them for an aquatic worm.
My "Mottled Midge" came to fruition after sampling numerous larva/pupa and often noticing different mottled patterns in the screen. The easiest solution to tying these larva patterns was a solid colored thread body and different colored ribbing, but the "effect" wasn't quite what I was looking for. Pondering different ideas at the tying desk I happened to notice my Sharpies...
My "Mottled Midge" came to fruition after sampling numerous larva/pupa and often noticing different mottled patterns in the screen. The easiest solution to tying these larva patterns was a solid colored thread body and different colored ribbing, but the "effect" wasn't quite what I was looking for. Pondering different ideas at the tying desk I happened to notice my Sharpies...
JAB's Mottled Midge Larva
Materials:
Hook: Daiichi 1260 (Size 12 - 20) (Size 18 pictured). Daiichi 1270 or similar for smaller than 20
Thread: UTC 70, color of choice (Red pictured)
Mottled Effect: Permanent marker, color of choice (Black Pictured)
Ribbing: Gold extra fine/small (Hends .009 pictured)
Step 1:
Flatten the hook barb with vise jaws. Start thread slightly behind eye and take 5 or 6 wraps of thread rearward.
Step 2:
Secure ribbing without taking one turn of thread. Simply bring ribbing material under the hook slightly touching the thread and move up and away from you. Both hands should be on the far side of the vice. Lift ribbing straight up. You should see the ribbing underneath the last turn of thread on the hook shank. Repeat once or twice (essentially two or three wraps of thread) and pull down on thread firmly. Ensure wire is parallel with hook.
Step 3:
Take flat wraps of thread to the bend of the hook. Ensure ribbing lays parallel with hook shank. Stopping point is directly above the barb area.
Step 3A:
Advance thread forward to the eye area. Stopping point is approximately 1 eye length behind the eye (as pictured).
Step 4:
Create desired mottled effect with fine point permanent marker along thread wraps. This step is completed before winding the ribbing. The allows the ribbing to stand out against the body and not be covered by the permanent ink. Be careful not to apply too much pressure from the pen to thread wraps as this will cause excessive bleeding of the ink.
Step 5:
The first turn or two of ribbing should always behind a thread or floss body. This keeps the body material from unraveling or moving down the hook.
(Pictured below) The first two turns of tinsel are touching. The next two are fairly close to one another before opening the distance- just like the natural chronomidae. Complete seven or eight turns to the eye area and secure with two or three wraps of threads.
Step 6:
Build a small thread head and whip finish. If desired, a few mottled spots may be added
Step 7:
Apply a thin coat of UV resin over the finished fly. An additional coat of UV resign may be desirable.
The combinations of colors are too numerous to list here, but a couple of my favorites are a cream thread with black, brown, red, wine or olive markings. Don't be shy... try two or even three different colors together. No two flies will be the same!
Enjoy!
Step 6:
Build a small thread head and whip finish. If desired, a few mottled spots may be added
Step 7:
Apply a thin coat of UV resin over the finished fly. An additional coat of UV resign may be desirable.
The combinations of colors are too numerous to list here, but a couple of my favorites are a cream thread with black, brown, red, wine or olive markings. Don't be shy... try two or even three different colors together. No two flies will be the same!
Enjoy!
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