You Know You're Having A Bad Day.....

If it wasn't for bad luck, this guy would have no luck at all!

Partridge and Yellow (Variant)

Did you notice I included the word "variant" in the subject line?  What the heck is a variant? Simply put, a variant is nothing more than deviating from the original pattern with recipe intent in mind utilizing different material(s) and sometimes tying techniques.  But here's where this pattern gets a little tricky.

The Partridge and Yellow, or Yellow Partridge, as we see it tied today, has a thorax of hare's ear in the recipe. However, delving in the history of the pattern (T.E. Pritt's North country Flies, 1886) (Slyvester Nemes' The Soft-hackled Fly Addict, 1973), discloses the Partridge and Yellow's tying instructions as “Wings: hackled with a light feather from the back of a Partridge. Notice there is no indication of hare's ear? Further research suggests when a thorax of hare's ear is present (Michael Theakston's List of Natural Flies, 1853), the pattern is the Brown Spiral Drake. Theakston pens his pattern recipe: "orange or yellow silk; hackled, for wings and legs, with a freckled-brown feather from the back or shoulder of a partridge; with a few fibres of hare's ear wrought in at the breast."  Both aforementioned patterns could easily be construed as a Partridge and Orange or Partridge and Yellow with today's tiers. Confused yet? How did we get to this point today?  I wish I had an answer.  For sanity' s sake, we'll leave it as the Partridge and Yellow.

The most notable variations on this pattern are the silver tinsel, brown partridge vice gray and the utilization of thread vice floss (silk) for the body.   Why so many changes?  Even though it often pains me to see historical fly recipes to go by the wayside, I also understand the need to broaden horizons.  However, these changes illustrate different tying techniques, yet the fly retains the classic look.   First, the silver tinsel gives the yellow thread a brilliancy unmatched when wet. This "bright spot," coupled with the tag, may very well imitate a gas bubble of an emerging insect. Materials such as silver Flashabou or mylar tinsel is frequently substituted, but the effect is nothing comparable to Lagartun varished tinsel.  Next, I feel the brown partridge adds a little more contrast to the body color as well as complimenting natural insect coloring.  Finally,  UTC 70 denier is very floss-like in both appearance and tying attributes.  This not only speeds up the tying process, but this thread lays thinner and tighter to the body than floss.

Materials

Hook:  Daiichi 1560 or any standard nymph hook, size 12-16

Thread:  UTC 70, yellow

Tag:  Lagartun, flat, fine silver  (silver Flashabou or mylar tinsel may be substituted)

Body:  Lagartun tinsel (silver Flashabou or mylar tinsel) under a base of UTC 70 thread

Thorax:  Hare's ear, natural

Hackle: Partridge, brown or gray

Step 1:

Pinch barb with vise.  Secure hook.  Start thread immediately behind the eye and take a few wraps.

Step 2:

Prepare a 6-inch length of tinsel by cutting a bevel appearance as pictured.

Step 2A:

Secure tinsel (bevel side facing rearward) with 3 or 4 turns of thread close to the point. Do not remove tag end at this point.  It will be be removed later.  The beveled edge aids in setting the correct angle during the wrapping process.

  

Step 3:

Wrap tinsel rearward with one wrap just aft of the hook and then return to the tie in area.  Each wrap should be touching the previous wrap, but not overlapping.   This will give a smooth, professional look as well as facilitate a smooth over body of thread or floss.

When you reach the area just aft of the tie in point, hold tinsel firmly and then unwind thread wraps. Take an additional turn of tinsel (or two) and secure with flat thread wraps rearward.  Remove waste ends.  Utilizing this method alleviates bulk of thread and tinsel.

Step 4:

With flattened thread make even wraps rearward to the hook point and return to the thorax area. Ideally, the body will be just thick enough to barely make out the silver tinsel underneath.

Step 5:

Dub a small ball of hare's ear.

Step 6:

Prepare a brown or gray partridge feather by removing the fluff from the bottom portion of the stem. If you desire less hackle simply remove the far side laying fibers.  The hackle can be wound as thin or thick as desired however, I prefer thicker due to the faster flowing waters I fish.  If needed, I can discreetly remove fibers as needed streamside.

Step 6A:

Fold or double hackle rearward and take one or two wraps and secure.

Step 6B:

While keeping tension on bobbin complete a three or four turn whip finish.  Apply a coat or two of head cement.  Finished!

UTC 70 denier comes in several useful colors for this pattern- including fluorescent.  I would also add that flies tied solely of tinsel (gold or silver) and hare's ear take a fair share of fish, too.

Enjoy!

February Red Soft Hackle

I had to do a little research for the February Red knowing there are a few different versions of this soft hackle pattern (like so many other patterns). Some are tied on short shank hooks, others to 2XL hooks.  Partridge and grouse are common hackles yet others are tied with a thorax and even a few variations tied with fur spun on red silk. There are also a few different techniques of tying, too.   The closest I came to finding the exact pattern recipe compared to what we tie today came from The Soft-Hackled Fly and Tiny Soft Hackles (Nemes 1975).  The body consisted of  mahogany silk and brown partridge hackle.

For the beginning tier, one of the main reasons for this blog, let's go the simple route.   Please note that tradition(al) (soft hackle) calls for silk as tying thread however, I have been using Veevus thread for much of my tying these days.  It is strong, tough and gives a close facsimile of silk for the body.  

We can look at different tying techniques and materials for traditional soft hackles down the road.  In the interim, let's get you started...

Materials

Hook:  Daiichi 1530 or 1560, sizes 12-16

Thread:  Pearsall's Gossamer silk (red) or Veevus 8/0 (red)

Hackle:  Partridege, brown

Step 1:

Pinch barb with hook vise and secure.  Form a body with thread or silk by starting just behind the eye and advancing thread/silk to a position between the hook point and barb then returning to the area pictured.

Step 2:

Prepare a partridge by stripping all the fluff from the bottom of the feather.  Tie is feather by the tip or forward part of the feather.  Fibers should be, at a minimum, as long as hook bend.  Fold tip back over thread and make one or two tight securing wraps and cut away tip. This will lock the feather in place.

Step 3:

Lift stem straight up and draw fibers rearward.  Make one wrap (or two if a thicker hackle is desired) and secure.  Finish with a 3 or 4 turn whip finish.  Apply a coat or two of head cement.  If you are utilizing silk do not apply head cement.

I've opened the hackle to show the body.

Again, this instruction is not traditional.  I will cover it at a later time.

Enjoy!