Psycho Brassie

The Brassie is a very underestimated pattern that I tie on my tippet every so often.  Tied in small sizes is represents a midge and it does a pretty decent job of imitating glossosoma pupa in size 16 throughout the Sierra's, too.  However, the coloration just isn't quite right for me.  I really like the look of old copper which is difficult to find.   Now comes colored wires...  UTC, Hends and Sybai are all top notch with numerous colors.  However, it hard to beat Hends or Sybai and their color range in extra small sizes.

A lot of times I double with two colors to get contrasting colors or subdue the color of the ribbing. Why I haven't done this for the Brassie is beyond me.  But I am liking the effect and coloration. Off to the bench- I have a few to tie up in copper/purple (below), copper/orange and copper/pink. That should cover the Sierra's!

Materials:

Hook:  Firehole 316, size 16 or 18

Thread:  12/0 Bennechi, black

Body:  2-strands of Sybai 0.1MM.  One each of copper wire and bright voilet.  Twisted tightly clockwise and wound forward.

Wing:  (optional) One strand Hends UV Ice Effect Krystal Flash #100, UV white

Thorax/Collar:  Muskrat, black.

Notes:  

(1)  Color combinations are numerous
(2)  The wing is optional, but consider adding it for extra visibility in late evening.  Keep it short.

JAB's DSE Caddis

Here's another one of my secret patterns I've decided to share.  Dubbing/Spinning deer hair for a collar or thorax isn't so secret, but overall the materials and techniques in use are different from the normal fur/hair combinations.   DSE's tied in olive and tan are big hits for me.

What does DSE stand for?  It stands for the fishing techniques that can employ when this fly is tied on- Diving Skating Emerger.   Yup, multifaceted!  It can be tied on by itself and cast slightly upstream and fished as an emerger or be skated downstream about 2/3 into the drift.  The angler can also dive it fly under the surface at or near the end of the drift.   I often tie the DSE as a dropper, too. Once the drift is complete and the flies start to rise in the water column I start to get the jitters!  The take is sudden and usually hard.

Tying Notes:

1)  Any fur or synthetic will work for the body.  However, Sybai's Fine Flash or Ice Dubbing in olive or tan mixed with a little Sybai's Fine Flash UV or Pearl Blue Ice Dubbing increases the effectiveness of this pattern 10-fold.  Heavily pick out the body.  I am firmly convinced this and the combination of dubbing with UV give fish a target.  In other words- the caddis bubble.

2)  The ribbing is 2-strands of DMC embroidery thread in a light bronze color.

3)  You have two different choices on how to apply the deer hair.  Dubbing works well, but you will loose overall length of the hair as well as flatten it (bottom picture).  This style makes for a very effective emerger.   However, I usually spin the hair in a dubbing loop and wind forward which gives the fly it's signature ratted and ragged look.  The hair is then trimmed loosely much in the shape of a Muddler in an arc of approximately 200-degree.  The bottom should be also cut loosely, but exposing most of the body is best.   Just be sure to leave a little on the sides.  The final touch is trimming the hair at an angle as you would find on a Goddard Caddis.  This combination of trimming will give the fly a nice tented look when complete and wet.

4)  I have given the deer hair a mottled look with a brown indelible pen.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 10-16

Thread:  UTC 70, Brown or Olive

Body:  80% Sybai Fine Flash (color of choice) (Olive pictured) and 20% Sybai Fine Flash UV

Ribbing:  2-strands of DMC embroidery floss #E301

Thorax/Collar:  Deer hair (dark tan pictured and mottled with brown indelible ink) or color of choice.

A dubbed thorax/collar of deer hair

Desk Mess Flies: #1

Desk mess flies?  Every so often my tying area becomes an absolute disaster area!  It is amazing how big of a mess I can make and still know exactly where everything rests.  Bits, pieces and clippings of waste hair, fur, flosses, various dubbings, tinsels and half used feathers find themselves in little piles among the masses of packages I should have tucked back into the storage bins as I finished.  Once my short lived procrastination stage is over packages start finding their way back into draws and bins. Underneath these piles and mounds the waste becomes apparent.  Should I used these waste byproducts or simple place it in the trash?

There are quite a few tiers that find a purpose for their tiny scrapes that would have otherwise made it in the "circular file."  I've seen some pretty incredible flies and results.  One memory that will always stick in my mind was meeting a gentleman on the Upper Sacramento River who was catching a tremendous amount of fish.  After watching the gentleman for a half an hour or so I approached him. "What's the secret fly?" I asked.  He mentioned, "Nothing more than a simple black fly."  I had a good look and noticed the black tail fibers, but the body material threw me..  "What's the body?" I asked.  "It is the fluff from the base of a mallard feather" he said and continued with, "The tail and body is from dyed black mallard."  "I don't like to throw anything away so I re-purpose or save it." 

A desk mess can bring out the creativity and well as reduce waste saving money.  Occasionally I get a wild hair (no pun intended) to use the "leftovers."  A lot of the flies show promise and find a dark corner in the fly box until the time comes when fishing is slow.   You'll find that some flies will catch fish while fish laugh at the others.  Sometimes a little tweaking here and there of the original desk mess fly will often produce a solid fly!

Have some fun!

Hook:  Firehole 316, Size 10

Bead:  8/0 Tohu glass, Rainbow Rosaline, Opaque Purple Lining #928

Weight:  Fine tungsten wire

Thread:  Whatever is on the bobbin!

Tail:  Mottled brown hen

Ribbing:  Perdigone ribbing material, UV black

Body:  The dark, short and spikey hair taken directly from the ear of a hare's mask

Thorax/Collar:  Sybai Fine Flash, Black

Desk Mess Flies: #2

My cleaning efforts are winding down.  I can now see my blue desk mat as well as background board!  This hasn't kept me from tying..  No sir.  I am little pumped!  The mess has become a love/hate relationship!

Another desk mess fly!

Hook:  Firehole 316, Size 10

Bead:  3/16" Brass, Black

Weight:  An additional 15 wraps of .020 lead free wire

Tail:  Grizzly Micro Legs, Fl. Orange

Body:  2-strands of DMC Floss, Antique Effects #E310 and 1-strand of Sulky Holoshimmer, Lt. Copper # 6011 tightly twisted clockwise and wound forward.

Legs: Grizzly Micro Legs, Fl. Orange

Thorax/Collar:  Sybai Fine Flash, Black

Desk Mess Flies: #3

Good Lord...  The bottom of the pile has been reached!  Time to make a mess again.

This fly changed significantly even though I used the same materials from the Desk Mess #2 fly.

Tying note:

I stripped off approximately 4.5 feet of Sulky Holoshimmer to make the body.  No need to worrying about blowing through this material.  It comes on a 250-yard spool.  Simply keep doubling the material until you have 8 to 10 inches to work. Tie off to the far side of the hook.  Twist clockwise tightly and wrap forward.

Materials:

Hook:  Firehole 316, Size 10

Bead:  3/16" Brass, Black

Weight:  An additional 15-wraps of .020 lead free wire.

Thread:  UTC70, Black (On one of my bobbins.)

Body:  Sulky Holoshimmer, Lt Copper #6011.  Darken the back with black indelible ink.

Legs:  Grizzly Micro Legs, Fl. Orange

Thorax/Collar:  Sybai Fine Flash, Black

Top View

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #50

#48    Hare's Ear Teal Hackle

Notes:

(1)  Water fowl hackle offers excellent movement when tied long.  Combine this with the silky swaying of an after shank feather called filoplume and hare's ear you're bound to have a dynamite pattern.
(2)  I used several variations of this nameless pattern for over 35-years with great success.  It is mainly a lake pattern for British Columbia, but has found some success in the deeper pools of Washington's Cascade Mountain Range rivers chasing bull trout. 
(3)   The original version calls for a very thin tail of marabou with the remaining portion of the feather wrapped to the midway point of hook.  The forward body is rabbit spun in a dubbing loop so all the guard hairs point rearward.  Either mallard of teal  tied long to the midway point of the tail finishes the fly.  The whole idea behind the pattern came from trying to find hackle stronger than pheasant rump for the infamous Carey Special.
(4)   The rear body is formed just like the Hare's Ear/Snowshoe Rabbit Emerger and Hare's Ear Soft Hackle.   This time I replaced the tinsels with Glitter Thread doubled.
(4)  The forward portion of the body (May also be a thorax) is filoplume- the aftershank feather from the  pheasant rump.  To see a filoplume feather and one method for tying it in check out the Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear Filoplume Prince.
(5)  There are a whole host of color possibilities with this pattern.  Natural is "light's out," but olive, brown and black (in order) are great colors to fish your favorite lake!

Materials

Hook:   Any 3XL nymph hook.  Sizes 6- 14  (Pictured is a Firehole 839, size 12.)

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Tan UTC 70 pictured finished by marking the last few inches with brown indelible ink.
Tail:  Teal dyed brown (Nature's Spirit)

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.  Twisted with gold wire and doubled Glitter Thread, rust.  Wound to approximately the 60-percent mark.   Forward portion of the body is pheasant rump filoplume spun in the split thread method.
Hackle:  Teal dyed brown.  Even the tips, cut away from the stem and form evenly around the shank.  Secure, trim away butt ends, form small head and whip finish.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #49

#48    Hare's Ear Soft Hackle

Notes:

(1)   The body composition of this fly is exactly the same as the Hare's Ear/Snowshoe Rabbit Emerger.   However, this time I've replaced the Mirage Krystal Flash with a wider pearl mylar tinsel.
(2)  I would recommend trying various colors of Krystal Flash and hare's ear combinations.  Although it is hard to beat natural hare's ear with either pearl Krystal or the Mirage (Opal) Olive hare's ear, olive. black and insect green cover most species of caddis
(3)   To achieve the proper "flash" and proportions first wax the thread.   Second, start applying very minute amounts of dubbing approximately 1.5-inches down the thread from the hook in a taper.  After the dubbing has been applied bring the thread back to the shank and form a dubbing loop.  Bring tinsel and wire together with the dubbing and twist tightly.   This will give you a tight segmented effect and allow the tinsel and wire to show through the hare's ear.  The first 2 or 3 wraps should be strictly the tinsel and wire before the hare's ear commences up the shank.
(4)  The thorax/collar is underfur from a gray fox and hare's ear mixed together.  Pick out well and stroke to the rear.
(5)  Fish down and across..   Strikes are quick and short! 

Materials

Hook:   Daiichi 1150, sizes 10-16 (Size 12 pictured)

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Tan UTC 70 pictured.  

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.  Twisted with gold wire and Veevus pearl tinsel (medium).
Shoulder:  Hare's ear, natural, mixed with gray fox underfur.  (Numerous substitutes are available.)
Hackle:  Partridge or grouse.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #48

#48    Hare's Ear/Snowshoe Rabbit Emerger

Notes:

(1)   Another of of my favorite patterns that I've played around with over the years and consider it a great guide fly.  This particular pattern has a very unique body of gold wire,  Mirage Krystal Flash (Midge) (Opal) and a minute amount of hare's ear twisted together to form the body.
(2)  Various colors of hare's ear and Krystal Flash can be experimented with.  It's hard to beat natural hare's ear with either pearl Krystal or the Mirage (Opal).  Olive hare's ear works wonders for my local hatch of Little Weedy Western Water Sedge in small sizes (16-20).  Another "must" is a body of insect green to imitate rhyachophila caddis.
(2)   To achieve the proper "flash" and proportions first wax the thread.   Second, start applying very minute amounts of dubbing approximately 1.5-inches down the thread from the hook in a taper.  After the dubbing has been applied bring the thread back to the shank and form a dubbing loop.  Bring Krystal Flash and wire together with the dubbing and twist tightly.   This will give you a tight segmented effect and allow the Krystal Flash and wire to show through the hare's ear.  The first 2 or 3 wraps should be strictly the Krystal Flash and wire before the hare's ear commences up the shank.
(3)  Once the body is wrapped select a grouse or partridge feather and make 3-wraps with the fibers doubled.   Gather approximately 75-percent of the fibers and bunch them on top of the shank and secure.  This will provide a wonderful underwing.  The remaining fibers stay underneath the shank for legs.  In smaller sizes the fibers will have to be removed from the stem of the feather for correct proportions.
(4)  A hefty bunch of  cream snowshoe rabbit is secured on top of the shank for the over wing.  Not only does the showshoe rabbit provide a visible aid to the angler (and fish), but provides wonderful floatation, too.  Snowshoe rabbit comes in various colors, but cream has proven to be "the color."  If you can find fluorescent orange (very tough to find) it is an awesome secondary wing,  Otherwise you'll need to dye it
(5)  The thorax/collar is applied in the split thread method and wound to the eye.  Brush to a very buggy effect and to the rear.
(6)   This emerger will sit in or just under the surface film.  The white wing will provide you the location of the fly.   I recommend applying Albolene to the snowshoe rabbit and collar for extra floatation.
(7)  This is a perfect pattern for shorter upstream casts casts in pocket water or shallow runs.  I also like to cast quarter downstream and work the fly just under the surface.

Materials

Hook:   Firehole Emerger 316, sizes 10-18 (Size 12 pictured)

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Tan UTCH 70 pictured.  The head was finished by applying brown indelible ink to the thread.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.
Underwing/Legs:  Grouse or partridge (brown).

Wing:  Underfur from a snowshoe rabbit, cream
Thorax/Collar:  Hare's ear, natural, Nature's Spirit Emergence dubbing (hare's ear) and Mercer's Buggy Nymph dubbing (dark hare's ear) (Brownish in color.) mixed thoroughly.  Spun in the split thread method.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #47

#47    Hare's Ear Caddis or Deer (Elk) Hair Caddis

Notes:

(1)  This pattern came to fruition when I was looking for an alternative to using a lot of my expensive hackle.   Utilizing a dubbing method I've used for so many of hare's ear patterns I decided to give this a shot.   It can be dressed to skate or float low in the surface film.  This pattern takes a few seconds less to tie, but I feel it is just as effective as Al Troth's Elk Hair Caddis.

(2)   The short, spiky hair from the ears is used to form a hackle effect enabling this pattern to skate across the surface.  I would definitely recommend keeping casts short (maximum 25-feet) to work the fly across runs and rifles.

(3)   Any fly floatant will work however, Hydrostop or Albolene (makeup remover) are great choices.

(4)   To form a thicker [caddis] body dubbing is applied fairly loose yet thick to the thread.  This will allow the hair to slightly flair.  Once the body has been wound forward pull the hair downward under the body.  Brush or pull hair rearward.  The wing is then applied.  

(5)  Before the wing is applied wind a small base of thread to keep the deer hair from spinning around the hook.  

(6)  This pattern should be tied in colors that match your local hatch.  However, the skating action will draw strike regardless of the color

(6)  I've used an indelible pen to mottle the deer hair.

Materials

Hook:  Dry fly.  Sizes 6-16.  (Firehole 419 #12 pictured) 

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Dark brown or color to match body (Tan UTC 70 pictured)

Ribbing:  Fine, gold, round

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.  

Wing:  Small clump of natural deer (Comparadun hair) 

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #46

#46   Hare's Ear Matuka

Notes:

(1)  The Matuka streamer is one of my favorites.  It can be tied several ways, but a strip wing tied on a tube is my preferred version.
(2)  Big browns, rainbows, searun cutthroat, steelhead and even salmon have fell victim to this version of the Matuka.  I tie it in several colors, mostly natural materials, but experiment with various synthetics and/or combinations of both.
(3)  This hare's ear version showcases the possible uses for different areas of the mask.  The body was built up with the stiff and longer hairs found at the base of the ears.  It was then wound over two layers of tungsten sheeting.
(4) The rib is doubled gold wire and twisted.  Not only does this provide a bigger profile, but it strengthens the ribbing.
(5) The collar was formed in a dubbing loop from the hair found on back of the mask just below the ears.  This hair is generally long, soft and straight.
(6)  When complete the pattern look terrible full and bulky.  It will slim down considerable when wet.
(7)  Hold on.  Strikes to this pattern are heart-stopping!

Materials

Hook:  3XL or 4XL.  I typically tie this pattern on a tube.  (Pictured is a TMC 200 size 6.)

Thread:  6/0 color to match.  I prefer UTC 70.  Although Danville 6/0 is a better choice for most tiers.

Ribbing:  Fine, gold, round. Doubled and twisted.  Five turns.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the base of the ear. 

Wing:  Muskrat zonker strip, natural.

Head/Collar:  Hair from the back of the mask just below the ear.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #45

#45   The Skater

Notes:

(1)   The short, spiky hair from the ears is used to form a hackle effect enabling this pattern to skate across the surface.  I would definitely recommend keeping casts short (maximum 25-feet) to work the fly across runs and rifles.
(2)   Any fly floatant will work however, Hydrostop or Albolene (makeup remover) are great choices.
(3)   To form a thicker [caddis] body dubbing is applied fairly loose yet thick to the thread.  This will allow the hair to slightly flair.  Once the body has been wound forward pull the hair downward under the body.  Brush or pull hair rearward.  The wing is then applied.  The head/collar is form via the split thread method.  Maneuver the hair rearward during each wrap.  Once complete the hair is drawn downward.  If desired the hair can also be allowed to rest in place.
4)   This pattern should be tied in colors that match your local hatch.  However, the skating action will draw strike regardless of the color

Materials

Hook:  Dry fly.  Sizes 6-16.  (Firehole 419 #10 pictured) 

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Dark brown or color to match body

Ribbing:  Fine, gold, round

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.  

Wing:  2 natural brown partridge feathers paired on top of each other. 

Head/Collar:  Same as body
Antennae:  Bronze mallard

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #44

#44   Skip Nymph

Notes:

(1)  The Skip Nymph was devised by master tier Skip Morris and designated as a mayfly nymph in the late 1980's.  In small sizes it is a hit.  However, in larger sizes and/or color changes the pattern fishes well for stoneflies, too
(2)  The original is tied with a copper wire ribbing, but I have tied and occasionally use gold wire, as pictured.
(3)   To tie the Skip Nymph:

A)  Place hook of choice in vise

B)  Tie in wire ribbing  and secure with wraps of thread to the end of the body area.

C)  Dub a tapered body of hare's ear and wind forward stopping at the 70-percent mark on the hook shank.

D) Select approximately 12 pheasant tail fibers and align tips.  (Smaller flies will require a less amount).  Remove from stem.

E)  With the tips aligned measure desired tail distance.  Secure pheasant tail fibers on top of the hare's ear with solid wraps of wire.  Secure ribbing in thorax area.  Do not clip forward pointing (over the hook eye) pheasant tail fibers.  These will be used for the wingcase. 

F)  Dub a thorax thicker than the body.

G)  Bring pheasant tail fibers over the top of the hare's ear to form wingcase and secure.

H)  Whip finish and trim thread.

I)   The last step is splaying 3 or 4 fibers tail fibers from each side.  Next is trimming the center fibers away.   You should have a "V" shape remaining.

Materials:

Hook:  2XL, 3XL or 4XL (Sizes 4-14)  (Pictured is a Firehole 839 size 12)
Weight:  To suit

Bead:  Optional

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Dark brown or black

Tail/Shellback/Wingcase:  Pheasant tail fibers used a continuous piece.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.  

Ribbing: Gold, fine round  Four to eight turns turns.

Thorax:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #43

#43   Hare's Hair Soft Hackle

Notes:

(1)  This pattern illustrates how the tier can use any portion of the hare's mask.
(2) The tail and hackle hair comes from the back of the mask below the ears.  These hairs are typically long and straight.   However, hair from the cheeks can be utilized, if desired.  The body uses the short, spiky hairs from the ears.
(3) I have had pretty decent results towing this pattern around behind the pontoon.  It doesn't represent anything specifically, but the soft hair from the mask brings this pattern to life and I typically tie it in olive, brown and black.   Gold tinsel is not used for the aforementioned colors. Instead I use two or three twisted strands of root beer Krystal Flash for brown, pearl Krystal Flash for olive and blue or red Krystal Flash ribbed over black.
(4)  The body should be tied thicker to imitate dragonfly nymphs and thin for damsels and leeches.  Don't be afraid to add a little weight to the forward portion of the hook.
(5)  The hair collar can be tied long or short.   Thin and short works exceptionally well for leech and damsel patterns.
(6)  An over wing/collar of pheasant rump can be tied in and wound, if desired.

Materials:

Hook:  2XL, 3XL or 4XL (Sizes 4-14)  (Pictured is a Firehole 839 size 12)

Bead:  Optional

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0.  Color to match body

Tail:  Hair from the back of the hare's mask or cheeks.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.

Ribbing: Lagartun gold, flat, narrow tinsel.  Four or five turns.

Collar/Hackle: Same as tail.  The collar is made by adding hair to either a split thread or dubbing loop.  Length is typically to the bend.   Pheasant rump can be added as an over collar/wing.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #42

#42   Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear Filoplume Prince (Guide Version)

Notes:

(1)   I am revisiting the GRHEFP.   Pictured is my guide version (less hackle collar or beard) which speeds up the tying process.
(2)   This is a phenomenal pocket water/riffle fly where stoneflies reside.  The filoplume offers a ton of movement in the water.
(2)  Try different colors of wing biots.  Fl. Orange is my "go to" for the higher flows of winter and spring as well as dirty water.  Chartreuse is a great option, too!  White is the old summer standby color.  However, there are times when I desire little more color in the water.
(3)   I also tie the flashback in peacock mylar and normal pearl.
(4)   Weight to suit, but ensure you're in the rocks!
(5)   I have older step by step tying instructions HERE

Materials:

Hook:  TMC 200R (sizes 4 - 12) (weight to suit)

Bead:  Optional

Thread:  UTC 70.  Color to match body or black

Tail: Goose biots, brown or color to match body.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the ear.

Ribbing:  X-small Lagartun oval gold tinsel (Copper wire if tied in olive)

Back:  Large opal Mirage tinsel for sizes 4-8.  Medium for sizes 10-12.

Thorax:  Ringneck pheasant or grouse filoplume feather from rump area.  Color to match body.

Collar/Beard:  (Optional)

Wings:  Goose biots.  Color of choice (Fl. Orange pictured)

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #41

#41   Large caddis

Notes:

(1)  Attention getter when fished in the surface film.  This pattern can also be heavily weighted and tumbled along the bottom.
(2)  I like to add a little rusty orange hare's ear to the natural color to imitate the big October Caddis.
(3)  The tail can be tied in various colors of wool however, softer colors seem to draw more strikes- especially gold.
(4)  A spiky body is formed with a dubbing loop utilizing the hair taken directly from the ear of the mask.
(5)  A collar of Russian gray squirrel is formed by a dubbing loop.  A professional tanned hide will provide a very soft fur and plenty of movement when fished.  A quick touch of orange indelible ink may be added to the collar.

Materials:

Hook:  Hanak 230, size 8-12 (Size 10 pictured)

Thread:  UTC 70, black or color to match body
Tail:  Uni-wool, gold or color of choice.

Ribbing:  Gold Lagartun, flat, small, 4 or 5 turns

Body:  Hare's ear taken directly from the ears.  Mixed with a small amount of Sybai Fine Flash, UV.  .
Collar: Russian gray squirrel with a small amount of underfur left in place.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #40

#40   Soft Hackle, Stinger

Notes:

(1)  Motivation for this style of fly comes from one of my many trips to Japan.  It combines a wee bit of Tenkara and ancient Japanese flies tied with eel skin, silk and a glass bead.

(2)  I have swapped the silk for UTC 70 thread; which, if wound flat will give the body a "silk-like" body.
(3)  A bead is placed on the hook and allowed to rest at the bend.  Thread is wound flat from the eye to the desire area.  A small hump of thread is built at the rear.  The bead should be slide onto the hump with some effort.  Slide the bead back down the hook and apply a drop of super glue to the hump.   Place bead onto the hump and allow to dry.

(4)  The fly is finished utilizing traditional procedures/steps.
(5)  Traditional soft hackle methods are fished with this pattern.

Materials:

Hook:  Firehole Sticks, Firehole 316, size 10-18  (Size 10 pictured)
Bead:  11/0 Tohu glass.   (Transparent chartreuse pictured)

Thread:  UTC 70 color to match body (Woodduck pictured).  Bright colored threads/silks are common.

Ribbing:  Gold Lagartun, small oval or small gold wire doubled and twisted  Wound over hare's ear only.

Rear Body:  Hare's ear taken directly from the ears.  Mixed with a minute amount of Sybai Fine Flash, UV.   Rear body is approximately 1/4 of total body length.
Body:  UTC 70, Woodduck.   Body should be as flat and thin as possible.

Hackle:  Mottled hen, light brown

I've opened the mottled hen legs in order to view the body.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #39

#39   Birds Nest, Hare's Ear

Notes:

(1) The Birds Nest is a very buggy searching pattern that doesn't represent a specific insect, but of impressionistic of several food sources.  Mainly used as river pattern however, don't be afraid to tie this fish catcher on for stillwaters!  A California staple for the rivers of Sierras.

(2)   Can be tied in quite a few different styles- even a Muddler or baitfish.   I tie the Birds Nest on 1XL to 4XL hooks.

(3)  More often than not many anglers choose to weight this pattern with just enough lead to break surface tension.  However, I find a heavily weighted pattern tied on as a point fly very productive.   A beadhead gives yet another option.

(4)  The body is dubbed tightly and wound forward to approximately the 60-percent mark on the hook shank.

(5)  The thorax is spun in a moderately tight dubbing loop or split thread.

(6)  The fly pictured below was tied specifically for the 50 Shades series.  However,  I plan to write a step-by-step following Cal Bird's original specifications.  Stay tuned!

Materials:

Hook:  Firehole Sticks, Firehole 839 (3XL), Size 12 pictured.  (2XL nymph hooks are the norm.)
Weight:  To suit.

Thread:  UTC 70 color to match body (Tan pictured)

Ribbing:  Gold Lagartun, small oval

Body/Thorax:  Hare's ear taken directly from the ears.  Mixed with a small amount of Sybai Fine Flash, UV

Legs/Collar:  Partridge, brown.  Should extend to a minimum of the middle of the tail.

I've opened the partridge legs in order to view the body.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #38 (Holy Grail Revisited)

#38   The Holy Grail

Notes:

(1)  I decided to reintroduce you to the Holy Grail

(2)  Game changer!  The Holy Grail combines the elements of hare's ear, partridge (soft hackle style), a tungsten (or brass) bead (even a glass bead can be used) and pearl Flashou.  This is a winning combination! Let's add one more fish-catching attribute- ultra violet.  I've mixed a small amount of Ice Dubbing in pearl blue to this caddis emerging pattern.  Hang on!

(3)  Upstream nymphing, Czech nymphing or swinging.  It doesn't matter your style of fishing.  The fish will come!  I find most of my strikes come from downstream about the three quarter mark of the drift or swing.

(4)  Black, brown, cinnamon, burnt orange and various shades of caddis green are all great colors to switch to- depending your local species.

Materials:

Hook:  Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, Sizes 10 to 16 (Size 12 pictured).  Or 2XL nymph hook.

Bead:  Size appropriate gold tungsten or brass.  You may also consider tying with a glass bead.

Thread:  UTC 70 color to match (UTC 70 brown pictured)

Ribbing:  Flashabou, pearl (Flashabou Mirage as well as the new perdigone tinsels are good change ups!)

Body/Thorax:  Hare's ear.  Color to match local species.  I've added pearl blue Ice Dubbing (UV)

Wingcase:  Pheasant tail or Ozark turkey, natural or color to match.

Hackle/Collar:  Partridge, gray or brown

I've opened the hackle up in order to view the body, thorax and wingcase.