JAB's Unwoven

The Unwoven came to fruition when I needed to fill a fly box full of patterns rather quickly for a last minute trip.  While I thought I had a sufficient numbers of Polish woven nymphs for a three day trip a quick check in my fly box proved otherwise.   Instead of spending too much time sitting down and weaving 10-dozen or more woven nymphs I utilized the body method on my Riffle Robber pattern to knock them out in short order.  The only difference between the two patterns is the collar.   The Riffle Robber utilizes American opossum tied rather long whereas the Unwoven is tied short with an unique mixture of various furs and synthetics.

Materials:

Hook: Fulling Mill Czech Nymph, size 10

Bead:  3.5mm tungsten, light coffee (or mocha)

Weight: (optional)  8 to 10 wraps of .025 pictured

Thread:  UTC 140, white to start.  This will build the under body taper and tightly secure the embroidery thread.  Color with indelible ink matching color of the body,

Body:  DMC metallic embroidery thread, bright lime #E703 (pictured) tightly wound counter-clockwise and wrapped forward.

Collar: Mixture of dark hare's ear, pine squirrel, black deer hair, Sybai Fine Flash, UV, and clear Antron

Notes:  

1)  Weight heavily.  If you're not losing a few flies, you're not fishing deep enough!

2)  Several colors of DMC's metallic embroidery thread are available.  In addition to the bright lime I find pearl, antique gold, light pink, bronze and black all wonderful colors.

3)  Colors can be tailored by utilizing the pearl metallic and coloring with indelible ink.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #46

#46   Hare's Ear Matuka

Notes:

(1)  The Matuka streamer is one of my favorites.  It can be tied several ways, but a strip wing tied on a tube is my preferred version.
(2)  Big browns, rainbows, searun cutthroat, steelhead and even salmon have fell victim to this version of the Matuka.  I tie it in several colors, mostly natural materials, but experiment with various synthetics and/or combinations of both.
(3)  This hare's ear version showcases the possible uses for different areas of the mask.  The body was built up with the stiff and longer hairs found at the base of the ears.  It was then wound over two layers of tungsten sheeting.
(4) The rib is doubled gold wire and twisted.  Not only does this provide a bigger profile, but it strengthens the ribbing.
(5) The collar was formed in a dubbing loop from the hair found on back of the mask just below the ears.  This hair is generally long, soft and straight.
(6)  When complete the pattern look terrible full and bulky.  It will slim down considerable when wet.
(7)  Hold on.  Strikes to this pattern are heart-stopping!

Materials

Hook:  3XL or 4XL.  I typically tie this pattern on a tube.  (Pictured is a TMC 200 size 6.)

Thread:  6/0 color to match.  I prefer UTC 70.  Although Danville 6/0 is a better choice for most tiers.

Ribbing:  Fine, gold, round. Doubled and twisted.  Five turns.

Body:  Hare's ear.  Color of choice.  Raked directly from the base of the ear. 

Wing:  Muskrat zonker strip, natural.

Head/Collar:  Hair from the back of the mask just below the ear.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #37

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear

#37  Anderson's Rubber Leg Stone (Variant)

Hook:  TMC 200R, sizes 6-12 (Size 8 pictured)

Bead:  Size is dictated by size and style of hook (3.5mm coffee colored tungsten pictured)
Weight;  Strips of .030 lead tied parallel to the shank

Thread: Start with UTC 140, white.  Finish thread is UTC 70, brown

Tail:  Round white rubber, fine or medium (fine pictured)

Body:  DMC embroidery metallic thread #E898 (top) and DMC embroidery floss #842 (bottom) woven

Legs:  Same as tail

Thorax:  Mixture of natural hare's ear, grey squirrel, Sybai Fine Flash, UV, black deer hair and Fine Flash, brown
Feelers:  Same as tail and legs

Notes:

(1)  George Anderson's original rubber leg stone used woven brown wool (top) and burlap (bottom)
(2)  Weight heavily.  Best fished down bouncing along the stream bed.
(3)  Excellent early season golden stonefly pattern or searching pattern.
(4)  Experiment with different colors- black/orange, olive/chartreuse, gold/yellow.
(5)  Start with white thread to tie in strips of lead, build a slight taper and then to tie in DMC thread/floss.  The thread/floss should be tied in parallel to the shank. Use a brown indelible pen to color the top of the body.  This will keep the white thread from showing through if weave isn't tight.  Brown thread is used to complete thorax and fly.

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear: #21

50 Shades Of Hare's Ear

#21  Oversized dubbing brush or loop - impressionistic stonefly imitation

Hook:  TMC 200R, sizes 6-12 (Size 8 pictured.)
Weight:  Tungsten sheeting cut into a strip and wrapped around the shank.  Thorax area is doubled.
Bead:  (Optional)

Thread: UTC 70, brown
Tail:  Pheasant tail natural
Body:  DMC embroidery floss (#E301) and Hends 0.1MM gold wired double.  Add a small amount of hare's ear between the strands.  Everything is twisted together .

Wingcase:  Ozark Oak mottled turkey
Thorax:   Natural hare's ear taken from the ear.

Notes:

(1)  Twist the body materials counterclockwise.  This ensure each wrap lays snug against the previous one.
(2)  A very unique pattern that is quick to tie.  Fishes well in areas of brown and golden stones.
(3)  Black body and hare's ear is also effective.
(4)  I have caught several steelhead on this pattern in the Northwest.   Great Lakes angler should give it go!

Flies Of Yesteryear: Burlap

I've been very fortunate to hold a few originals of this next fly in my hands.  A quick disclaimer... Although it cannot be positively confirmed it is strongly believed these flies were tied on Mustad 7970 hooks due to the perfect alignment of size, length and wire diameter.  However, there is a possibility of the hooks being manufactured Edgar Sealey, too.

I am going to kill three (not two) birds with one stone and highlight a pattern that is not only effective for resident river trout, but the mighty anadromous steelhead.  The finale is displaying the Burlap on a vintage Mustad 7970 5X Strong hook as it was tied over 75-years ago when Arnold Arana first introduced the pattern to the Klamath River in Northern California.  The Burlap remains popular on the Klamath and it's tributaries however, the fly is use more to pursue the aggressive half-pounder (returning 1-year old steelhead) than the larger adult steelhead on modern hooks such as the TMC 200 style.

Tying notes:

(1)  The Mustad 7970 is still available for those that desire to fish a floating line and chase steelhead. There are few patterns that are specifically tied on this hook for the aforementioned purpose. However, due to the hook's wire diameter, it is not recommended for smaller fish if you practice catch and release.

(2)  Quite a few of the recent pattern books call for fine deer hair in the tail and tied short.  The original Burlap utilizes light brown bucktail tied longer.  I haven't seen this dyed color tail commercially available, but the center portion of an ordinary white tail will suffice. This was more than likely the same procedure years ago for choosing the color

(3)  The Burlap is quite a resident trout pattern, too!  It is believed the trout mistake the fly for a caddis pupa or emerger.

(4)  This pattern fishes better the longer it is fished.  The shaggier, the better.  Scoring the body of the fly prior to fishing is strongly recommended.

Materials:

Hook:  Any 2XL or 3Xl nymph hook. (Mustad 7970, size 8 pictured)

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0. black

Tail:  Bucktail, Light brown at least one body length or slightly longer.

Body:  Burlap, natural color (tan) scored for a shaggy appearance

Collar:  1 or 2 turns of soft grizzly hen hackle tied long.

Mike Kennedy's Park

Merry Christmas fly fishing and tying community!  I want to extend my best wishes to you and your family during this joyous season. May your new year be prosperous and fishing karma always on your side!

The last fly of the year comes from the late Mike Kennedy who was considered the expert's expert. Trey Combs pens the following from his ground breaking 1976 book, Steelhead Fly Fishing and Flies: "Mike Kennedy describes his pattern as follows:  'This bug (fly) was designed by Dr. Edward Park of Baltimore, Maryland.  I first saw the pattern in print in the June 1948 issue of Fortune magazine.  I was first attracted to the bug because it was tied very much like I dress a steelhead fly (short body, sparse).  When I first tied it, I did so when I had no decent supply of either jungle cock or golden pheasant topping.  Thus I bastardized the pattern, but it took steelhead so well that I never bothered to dress it as Dr. Park did.  In any event, it's a hell of  fish producer for me.  The good doctor used this pattern on the Margaree for Atlantic salmon, and, if it worked as well as it does in southwestern Washington and Oregon, it should have been a killer.' "

"Mike calls the fly a 'killer' and no doubt it is very effective.  I should point out that he is very conversation oriented, returning the vast majorty of the many steelhead he catches."

I can certainly see how a topping of golden pheasant crest(s) and jungle cock would bring a lot of class and effectiveness to this pattern.   The golden glow and movement of natural crests in the water is hypnotizing and jungle cock adds aesthetic beauty!

I am going to show you another technique that deviates from tying and wrapping a normal hackle. Let me show you how to tie and wrap rabbit guard hairs for the hackle.  This is tremendously effective with the right river flows!

Materials

Hook:  Choice (Daiichi 2051, size 5 pictured)

Thread: Black (10/0 Veevus pictured)

Tag:  Flat narrow silver Lagartun

Ribbing:  Medium oval silver Lagartun

Body:  Black chenille originally.  (Uni-yarn black 2X wool pictured)

Hackle:  Yellow.  (Rabbit guard hairs pictured)

Wing:  Natural skunk or any dark brown hair

Step 1:

Place hook in vise.  Start thread approximately one eye length behind eye and secure return wire loop with thread.  Advance thread rearward to position shown.

Step 2:

Remove 3-inches or so of flat narrow tinsel from the spool.  Cut a longish beveled (tapered) appearance.   Tie in tinsel near the tip with taper facing rearward as shown.

Step 3:

A lot of tiers will make the ribbing from a continuation of the tag.  However, we have two different materials.  Additionally, the technique of securing the final wraps of tinsel can be applied to tags where thread build-up is not desirable.

With close touching turns, wrap tinsel rearward until reaching the distance between the hook point and barb (center) then return to the starting point.   Right before the final turn of tinsel is wrap, undo the thread wraps which tied the tapered end in.  Make final wrap of tinsel and secure with even thread wraps rearward to the hook point.  Each wrap of tinsel should not over lap.

You should end up seeing both waste ends of tinsel.

Remove waste ends and advance thread to the end of the returning wire.

Step 4:

Tie in black wool at the end of the returning wire on the side of the hook.  This helps cover (or reduces) in the distinctive bulge of the end of the wire when returning wool to the area with smooth and even body.  

Make even wraps rearward just forward of the hook point and return to position shown.

Step 5:

Tie in approximately 4-inches of oval tinsel underneath the hook at the 4:30 clock position (slightly away from you).  Once secured in tight even warps, advance thread forward to the returning loop.

Step 6:

Slightly twist wool clockwise until the two strands rest side by side (flat).  Wrap forward is close side by side turns.  Secure in position shown.

Step 7:

Securely wrap tinsel forward in 5 equal segments and secure.  Unfurling the tinsel (as shown) will greatly reduce thread bulk.

Step 8:

Form a dubbing loop and apply and tacky wax.

If you haven't already noticed, I stopped the thread well behind the eye area- more so than normal. We will be utilizing rabbit guard hairs as well as a little under fur for hackle.  This is overall much thicker than normal hackle

Step 8a:

Dampen your finger tips and stroke the rabbit 90-degrees from the hide or zonker strip.  Try to keep the tips as even as possible under pressure of your fingers and cut close to hid.  With your opposite hand slightly pinch and stroke some of the guard out from the butt ends.  (Although the rabbit will significantly thin down when wet, don't make the "hackle" too thick as not to make the body material(s) visible when fished.)  Add hair to loop and gentle spread evenly. Repeat this at least once more (or depending on how thick you want the hackle).  Generally twice is more than sufficient.

Once spread evenly within the loop, cut butt ends as close as possible to the loop.  You may also find tapping the butt ends very gently with your index finger helpful after trimming.

Step 8b:

Spin dubbing twister/loop clockwise until tight.  Do not overly tightly.  This will cause the thread to break.  You should have a chenille-like appearance.

Step 8c:

Dampen fingers and stroke fibers to the rear..

Step 8d:

The amount of turns is dependent of how thick you've made the "hackle" or how thick you would like the final product to be.  Typically 2 to 5 turns is more than sufficient.

Make close tight wraps forward to desired fullness and secure.

Step 8e:

Brush out any trapped fibers.  The rabbit will dry rather quickly by brushing.

Dried rabbit hackle

Step 8f:

My hackle is a little too long.   To shorten or evenly align the tips simply pinch and pluck the longer fibers.  The hackle should be (unless specified)  no longer than the end of the body.

Aligning the tips can be also be done with hackle pliers or tweezers.

Maybe a little more fine tuning...

Step 9:

Measure and tie in wing. (Beginner's Guide is located here)  Secure with tight yet enough wraps to cover the butt ends.  Apply one or more coats of head cement until desired appearance is achieved.  It is highly recommended that you allow the head cement to completely dry before each coat.

Happy New Year!

Ed Haas Tying Technique: The Weitchpec Witch

One man and his tying technique has managed to intrigue and fascinate me for years.  His technique has been practiced by many, yet so few have mastered it.

The late Ed Haas was considered a master fly tier and his technique is simply genius.  He left the civilized grid to live in a cabin in the woods with no electricity, running water nor modern luxuries after careers in investments, bartending, gambling and bookmaking to become the best commercial steelhead fly tier in Pacific Northwest history- perhaps America.  It is further said that Haas never took a fly tying lesson nor stepped one foot inside a fly shop.  Fascinating indeed.  Ed passed away in 1987.

Unlike the common practice of finishing a fly with a wing,  Ed Haas devised and mastered tying the wing in first.  This was accomplished by trapping the butt ends of hair between the returning loop wire with the hair tips facing out and over the eye then secured with thread wraps.  Once the wing was secured in place the fly would then be tied in the normal manner with the exception of the hackle.  The hackle feather is tied forward, wrapped in reversed back over the stem and the thread was then woven through the hackle fibers.  This practice not only made the hackle nearly as indestructible as the wing, but keep the thread wraps to nil or one at the base of the wing!  The final step after the tail, body and hackle were tied in place was bringing the wing back over the fly and securing with minimal wraps of thread.  The result was a virtually indestructible wing and a small neat head.  How indestructible?  Haas guaranteed every fly for life!

There are a few other advantages to tying the wing in the this manner.  First, slick or hard hairs such as squirrel or bear can be tied in without fear of pulling out.  Next, the wing can be set to a desired angle when finishing the head.  Think of the possibilities...

I'll do my best to repeat history with Ed's technique.  How exact I am is left unknown as I never met the man and there are not many that watched Ed tie.  However, I was shown this technique in the late 1980's and further researched it over the years.  I believe it to be true, correct to the best of my knowledge and welcome any feedback.

Again, I'll keep it simple for those interested in learning this phenomenal technique. As you gain confidence in this style of tying branch out and try different patterns and materials.

The Weitchpec Witch

The town of Weitchpec rests at the confluence of the Klamath and Trinity rivers in Northern California's steelhead mecca were this fly first tied and fished in 1949

Materials

Thread:  Black.  Use the smallest thread you feel comfortable with.  (10/0 Veevus is pictured)
Hook:  Any hook with a return wire loop.  I am tying on vintage Mustad 9002 which is similar to the hooks Haas had made to his specifications.  You'll find the turned down eyes the easiest to tie on.
Tail:  Golden pheasant tippets
Body:  Chenille or vernille, black (vernille is pictured)
Hackle:  Black saddle hackle
Wing:  Orange or Fl. Orange Arctic fox

Step 1:

Place hook firmly in vise.

Step 1a:

Warning: use caution during this step.

Open/Loosen the return wire.  Haas used a pocket knife to accomplish this.  He maneuvered the knife blade between the wire and pushed the blade to the eye.  When the knife was withdrawn a space between the shank and return wire resulted.  The hair would be inserted and then secured with wraps of thread effectively tightening/closing the loop. Although the taper of the knife's blade is generally sufficient to open the eye, avoid any prying motions unless you are absolutely sure of the hook's temper.  Not all hooks have the same temper. Some will be stronger than others, but most of the newer carbon steel hooks tend to be on the weak side. Again, use caution.

There are other tools that will work if you're not comfortable with a pocket knife, e.g., needle-nose split ring pliers.  However, I have grown accustom to working with one at the tying bench and felt it best to demonstrate Haas' technique for historical purposes.

I cannot ascertain Hass' true intent of opening the wire, but being a commercial tier, he may have done so to speed up the tying.  While this is an extra step, opening the wire loop does allow for easier introduction and securing of the wing- especially when the wing is brought back over the body to form the head.  Additionally, the butt ends of the wing rests parallel with the hook shank allowing for a more evenly tapered body.

Haas, by all accounts, was a very intelligent man.  Whether this was his intent or not, the technique is simple yet pure genius

Top view

Step 2:

Start thread inside the wire loop and make a few wraps rearward as shown

Step 3:

I have never been able to ascertain if Haas used a hair stacker or evened the tips by hand, but after seeing many of his flies, it appears he stacked more often than not. (If you can tell me about this missing piece to this puzzle, please let me know.  I am all ears!

For the most part, I prefer to even the tips by hand which presents a natural flow of hair.  This is accomplished by pinching the bottom portion of the butt ends and then pinching and pulling out the longer guard hairs near the tips. I also remove quite a bit of the under fur with a mascara brush preferring to  have a little more fullness to the wing.  Save that under fur for dubbing! 

Measuring the wing will be the most difficult step for the first-time reverse wing tier.  Haas' wings extended to the end of the bend or slightly past (there were a few exceptions).  It takes a little practice to nail down, but here's a helpful hint.  Take a quick generic measurement by placing the wing over the shank.  The tips of the wing are roughly even with the eye and your your thumb at the bend. Now slowly shorten the wing by pulling the butt ends through the pinch point of your thumb and finger and measure again.  This time place the tips even with where you intend finish the head of the fly. (Haas left plenty of room behind the eye.)  Use your thumb as a guide as you insert the wing between the wire and make a few tight wraps of thread.  Once the wing is reasonable secured between the loop with a few wraps of thread, the length can be tested and adjusted to length.  To test the wing length grab a few fibers from the top of the wing (this will become the bottom of the wing when reversed) and bring them over the shank.  If satisfied, make a few more tight wraps to further close the wire loop.

Step 3a:

With the butt ends under the hook cut them parallel them to the shank.  This will create a tapered appearance.

Step 3b:

Advance thread with tight wraps to approximately the hook point.

Step 4:

Select 10 to 15 golden pheasant tippet fibers and secure with rearward thread wraps stopping at the position shown. (Remember to estimate the width of the chenille or vernille.)  The tail length is approximate the hook gap width.  To make things more aesthetically pleasing, I have placed the second bar of the tippets even with the hook bend to equal the sections of the orange areas.

Step 5:

Prepare the chenille or vernille by stripping approximately one half inch of material away from the core and secure to the top of the shank.  (see Beginner's Guide)  At this point Haas would apply head cement or lacquer to the hook shank and wind the chenille forward.  To save time, I skip the application of head cement and utilize super tough vernille for the body

Step 5a:

Wind chenille or vernille forward and secure (see Beginner's Guide).  Note the position of the thread being next to the body

Step 6:

Tie in saddle hackle forward with concave side facing up.  The thread is advanced forward and returned in front of the body.

Step 6a:

Lift the hackle straight up and wrapped rearwards back over the stem.  The thread is then advanced firmly through the hackle locking it in place.   The thread position shown is three quarters through the hackle.  Once the thread is completely through the hackle no additional turns are required.  The hackle tip can be plucked (or cut) away.

Step 7:

Collect the wing and bring back over the fly.

Step 7a:

Tie wing down with tight yet minimal thread wraps- enough to cover the head.  Complete a three or four turn whip finish, snip thread and add a coat of head cement.  Additional coats of head cement may be required or until desired aesthetic effect is achieved.  Allow head cement to thoroughly dry between applications.

Enjoy!

Thor

The story goes... Noted professional fly tier C. Jim Pray of Eureka, California gave his friend Walter J. Thoresen a few flies try on the Eel River.  The flies were all tied on #6 hooks in the proven Royal Coachman colors.  On the day after Christmas in 1936, Thoresen quickly managed his 5-fish limit with a combined weight of 60-pounds.  The largest fish was entered in to the annual Field and Stream fishing contest and the 18-pound beauty won the contest.  Having accomplished this mighty feat, Pray decided to honor and name the fly after his friend.

The Thor is an excellent steelhead patterns that will forever last the test of time. Why?  Perhaps it is the highly effective Royal Coachman colors or it's simplicity in tying.  However, leave no doubt, it is still effective today as it was decades ago.  I am positive the Thor will continue to be a killer pattern as long as steelhead return to the river.

The original Thor was tied using red chenille for the body and a wing of white bucktail.  Although a few commercial tiers continue this traditional recipe to save time at the the bench, more often than not, the wing is substituted with calf tail.  Amateur tiers prefer substituting the body with angora goat, seal, wool, floss, or synthetic material.  A wing of polar bear, goat, temple dog, arctic fox, calf tail or skunk are perfect substitutions with the latter three the most common for winging material.

Materials:

Thread:  Black or red

Hook:  Choice (Alec Jackson Daiichi 2051, size 5 pictured)

Tail:  Orange hackle fibers

Body:  Uni-yarn, Chinese Red wool (pictured)

Hackle:  Dark brown or coachman brown

Wing: Skunk (pictured)

Please review the Beginner's Guide before proceeding.

Step 1:

Place hook in vise and start thread one eye length behind the eye advancing thread to a position just forward of the hook point as pictured.

Step 2:

Align 12 to 15 orange hackle fibers from the stem and remove with a quick downward plucking motion.  Secure hackle fibers to the top of the hook shank with flat rearward wraps of thread to the hook point.  Cut butt ends of hackle parallel to the shank and then return thread to the area immediately behind the returning loop wire as pictured.  Tail length is approximately the hook gap.

Step 3:

Remove approximately 7-inches of wool yarn for the spool.  (Some tiers prefer to the wrap the yarn from a bobbin.)  Tie in wool to the side of the hook shank immediately behind the end of the returning wire.  Make tight flat. even wraps of thread to the area in front of the hook point and return to the returning loop.  This will keep the body thickness even throughout- especially over the returning loop wire.   Additionally, remember to take in account the thickness of the material in use. The rear end of the first wrap should be even with the point on this style of hook.

Step 4:

Twist yarn counter-clockwise until the two strands appear side by side (flat).  Make flat, even wraps forward until your reach a spot just aft of the starting point (initial thread wraps) and secure.

Step 5:

Tie in a dark brown hen feather by the tip.  I like the fibers to extend to approximately the end of the body on this style of hook/

Step 5A:

Take three or four wraps and secure.

Step 6:

Prepare wing and tie in wing as describe in the Beginner's Guide.  This time I am leaving the hackle in place vice moving the hackle to the "down and back" position.  Complete fly with a three or for turn whip finish, cut thread and apply an additional coat or two of head cement.

Enjoy!

Steelhead Flies: A Beginner's Guide To Tying

Ready to get started on tying some salmon and steelhead patterns?  

It took me a few days to decide on how best to proceed with this genre of flies as most tiers will want to immediately start with all the latest and greatest fish catchers, i.e., intruder styles. However, there are many tying techniques which will be extremely helpful to you (for other patterns as well)  as I build up to the fancy stuff.

I'll keep things as simple as possible for the first few flies.  Let's tie the ever popular Skunk to start things off.   With these few steps there are dozen of classic patterns you can tie!

Materials:

Thread: Black (10/0 pictured)
Hook:  Gamakatsu T10-6H (Size 4 pictured)
Tail:  Red saddle hackle fibers
Ribbing:  Lagartun, silver
Body:  Vernille or chenille, black
Hackle:  Black saddle hackle
Wing:  Bucktail, arctic fox, skunk, etc., white

Step 1:  

Place hook in vice.  Start thread approximately one eye length behind the eye making tight even turns rearward securing the wire loop.

You've probably notice on all the patterns tied for the blog having a specific thread starting point. My starting points are measurements (or stopping points) for finishing each pattern.

Top view

Continue to advance thread to the hook point.

Step 2:

Select a red saddle hackle.  I prefer the softer, web-like fibers near the bottom of the stem.  Align approximately 12 to 15 fiber tips by stroking the fibers 90-degrees from the stem.  Pinch the tips and remove with a quick downward plucking movement.

Measure tail.  The length is approximately one hook gap.  Tie in directly to the top of the hook and make a few rearward wraps,  Stopping position is pictured.  The proportions for the body on this style of hook is mid way between the hook point and barb.  Since I am tying with vernille, a thick, dense chenille material, I am anticipating this width by stopping the thread early.

Step 2B:

Remove the butt ends of the hackle by cutting parallel to the shank.  This will create a taper and avoid build up in this area.

Step 3:

Flatten thread and make a sharp turn forward over previous thread wraps.  Again, we don't want a bunch of thread build up in this area.  Tie in tinsel with a few rearward wraps of thread on the opposite side of hook at the 4 o'clock position on the shank.  I have stopped at the hook point as pictured.

Step 4:

Strip approximately a half inch of vernille from the core.

Step 4A:

Tie in and secure vernille to the top of the shank and advance thread forward to the return loop area.

Step 4B:

Wrap vernille forward in close, tight wraps to the starting point marked by the thread behind the eye (Step 1).  Next, peel back a section of vernille as pictured.  This is keep thread wraps to a minimum and reduce bulk.

Step 4C:

Secure vernille with tight thread wraps forward. Remove waste end.

Step 5:

Wrap tinsel tightly forward in even segments.  Tradition dictates 5 turns of tinsel.

Step 6:

Select a black saddle hackle.  The length of the fibers can reach anywhere from 1/2 to full body length.  Most tiers will strive to have the fibers reach the hook point or slightly shorter.

Tie in saddle hackle by the tip end and remove cut away tip section.

Step 6B:

Lift hackle straight up and stroke fibers rearward.  With fibers coaxed to the rear take 3 or 4 turns while ensuring fibers lay to the rear during the turns  This can be done with continued fiber management (stroking while wrapping).

Step 6C (Optional):

Many pattern books call for the hackle to be positioned "down and back."  This is nothing more than equally splitting the hackle from the top of the shank and drawing them in a downward fashion.  This is done to keep the wing from positioning or riding too high over the body.

Step 7:

Remove a small bunch of hair from the hide.  The original was tied with bucktail and later with polar bear hair.  Arctic fox. temple dog or skunk hair are an excellent substitutes.  I am tying with skunk due to it's thin, soft and translucent fibers (akin to polar bear).

Step 7A:

Thin and hand even hair tips by pinching and pulling the larger guard hairs away.  Also remove some of the underfur as well as shorter hairs from the sides of the clump.   Save your longer guard hairs in a pile with the tips to one side.  This pile can be hot glued once the butt ends are trimmed and used for additional flies.

Step 7B:

Switch the clump to the opposite hand,  Measure the wing by placing the hair over the top of the body.  The wing should be to the bend or slightly past.  

Step 7C:

With the length measured, switch the clump to the other hand and use the thread's position as a cutting guide.

Step 7D:

Your clump can now be move away from the top of the shank to clean up the butt ends if needed.  If not, move hair into position, lift and angle hair to a 30 to 45 degree angle to the body.  This will trap the top of the butt ends to the shank.  Make a a few tight securing turns.  Once secured, I like to add a small drop of thin head cement to help lock in the butt ends.

Step 7E:

If you elected to add a drop of head cement to the butt ends, allow it to sink in.  Take a few extra tight wraps and then complete with a 3 or 4 turn whip finish and cut away thread.  Add a coat or two of head cement to achieve desired gloss.

Enjoy!