Do you go through a lot of baitfish flies? If the answer is yes then you'll probably want a very simple yet effective pattern to tie... something quick that can fill the empty voids of a fly box rather quickly.
It wasn't too long ago when salmon taken on fly gear was breaking new ground in the Puget Sound. Baitfish patterns of polar bear or bucktail adorned long shank stainless steel hooks to pursue the quarry. Soon thereafter, synthetic tying materials starting making their way into the fly tier's arsenal. Next, new hook manufacturers changed tying techniques and styles with their unique line-up of hooks. While many anglers still perfer tying their patterns on hooks, there's yet another dimension which has gained a much larger audience within the last two decades.
Europeans have been tying and fishing tube flies for years, yet for some reason or another, tube flies didn't gain much ground in America until Tube Flies, A Tying and Historical Guide (Mark Mandell and Les Johnson) was published in 1995. Anglers soon discovered the tube fly's numerous advantages and how easy it was to convert (tie) older patterns on to tubes. In short, a new tying revolution is here- tube flies!
I don't claim any originality to this pattern, but the Simple Baitfish Tube (SBT) was devised under the "KISS" (Keep It Simple ......) philosophy. Perhaps the only step I do differently than what is generally accepted or taught is winding a collar of hair instead of the traditional stacking or layering material around the tube. Nonetheless, it is a very quick and simply tie. More importantly, it is a "lights out" pattern!
Be creative here. This style need not be only for salmon, but any fish that willingly takes a fly!
Materials:
Tube: Pro Tube Fly System Mircotube (or choice) and Pro Hookguide (I recommend preparing several tubes in advance.)
Thread: White UTC 70
Collar: White australian sheep (or arctic fox, finn raccoon underfur)
Underwing: UV Minow Belly
Wing: White australian sheep topped with material and color of choice.
Cone: 3/16-inch nickel (choice size)
Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (or choice)
Step 1:
Place a small drop of Zap-A-Gap on rear portion of tube. Slide Hook guide onto the rear of the tube. Place tube on needle. Start thread just forward of junction point.
Step 2:
Form a dubbing loop and wax thread. Select a medium size clump of soft under fur and place in the loop. The tips of the hair should extend just past the end of the junction tube. Clip excess hair close to the thread. This will remove excess build up of hair in the thread during the tying process.
Spin dubbing loop clockwise to form a chenille-like rope. The fibers should extend out from the thread at 90-degree angles. You will find by dampening and stroking fibers to the rear of the tube thoughout the winding process an invaluable tying management tool. Wind fibers around the tube 3 to 5 times depnding on the material used. Arctic fox will usually take three turns, whereas, finn raccoon and australian sheep requires a minimum of 4 turns due to their fine and wispy nature.
Step 3:
Tie in 3 to 6 strands of UV Minnow Belly and secure strands by bringing the material back over the fly and locking with a few wraps of threads.
Step 4:
Select a small clump of hair and comb out underfur. Tie in wing to desired length. To maximize the effectiveness of the fly, keep the wing sparse. Tying tip: it is important to keep the thread wraps firm yet to a minimum. This will facilitate hiding the thread wraps and allowing the cone to follow the natural curvature of the hair without a large gap. The photo in step 6 shows a small gap between the rear of the cone and forward portion of the hair. This was for illustration purposes only.
Step 5:
Add an over wing (or topping). Color and material is a personal choice, but natural hairs such as arctic fox, temple dog, finn raccoon, etc., are excellent choices. In the synthetic department, I prefer materials such as hanked Lite Bright or Angel Hair. In the photo below I used a very small amount of chartreuse arctic fox.
Step 6:
Once step 6 is complete, add a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the thread wraps. Before the super glue dries, firmly slide a cone head over the head.
Note:
Unfortunately, Pro Tube System's cones lack the weight I like. I modified the Spirit River cones to fit these tubes by reaming the inside of each cone with a drill bit in order to facilitate their use. Completing a few dozen cones in advance will save time a lot of time at the bench.
Step 7:
Remove the tube from needle. Use an X-acto knife or razor blade to cut tubing leaving approximately 1/16 of an inch in front of the tube. Please note how the cone is sitting now- no gap and in place on the hair.
This step take a little practice.... To secure the cone to the tube use a lighter to roll (flare) back the outer edge of the tube. The heat from the flame will naturally flare back over the front opening of the tube. Only use the blue flame (coolest) portion of the lighter when lit. Too much heat will close the hole in the tube.
Step 8: (Optional)
Depending on the size and type of hook you elect to use you may or may not have to cut back the hook guide. In this demostration I am using a Gamakatsu SC15 size 4. I have removed approximately 1/4-inch from the hook guide.
Your tube fly is complete! The length of this fly is a hair (no pun intended) over 2-inches.
Again, this is a very simple and quick tube fly to tie. With a little practice you should be able to complete one in under 5-minutes!
For coho or searun cutthroat I have made a habit of adding stick on eyes to the cones. To secure them you can either apply a small drop of super glue to the adhesive back with a bodkin and then apply, or sticking the eyes to the cones and covering them with a thin coat of Liquid Fusion. There are cones available with the eyes are preset (called Cross-eyes). Unfortunately the smallest size available is 1/4-inch, but it takes the inconvenience of placing your own eyes on!
Enjoy!
